Our trail was now descending to the bottom of what seemed to be the narrowest part of the plain, the same one the Jayhawkers had started across, further north, ten days before.  When we reached the lowest part of this valley we came to a running stream, and, as dead grass could be seen in the bed where the water ran very slowly, I concluded it only had water in it after hard rains in the mountains, perhaps a hundred miles, to the north.  This water was not pure; it had a bitter taste, and no doubt in dry weather was a rank poison.  Those who partook of it were affected about as if they had taken a big dose of salts.

A short distance above this we found the trail of the Jayhawkers going west, and thus we knew they had got safely across the great plain and then turned southward.  I hurried along their trail for several miles and looked the country over with field glass becoming fully satisfied we should find no water till we reached the summit, of the next range, and then fearing the party had not taken the precaution to bring along some water I went back to them and found they had none.  I told them they would not see a drop for the next forty miles, and they unloaded the lightest wagon and drove back with everything they had which would hold water, to get a good supply.

I turned back again on the Jayhawker’s road, and followed it so rapidly that well toward night I was pretty near the summit, where a pass through this rocky range had been found and on this mountain not a tree a shrub or spear of grass could be found—­desolation beyond conception.  I carried my gun along every day, but for the want of a chance to kill any game a single load would remain in my gun for a month.  Very seldom a rabbit could be seen, but not a bird of any kind, not even a hawk buzzard or crow made their appearance here.

When near the steep part of the mountain, I found a dead ox the Jayhawkers had left, as no camp could be made here for lack of water and grass, the meat could not be saved.  I found the body of the animal badly shrunken, but in condition, as far as putrefaction was concerned, as perfect as when alive.  A big gash had been cut in the ham clear to the bone and the sun had dried the flesh in this.  I was so awful hungry that I took my sheath knife and cut a big steak which I devoured as I walked along, without cooking or salt.  Some may say they would starve before eating such meat, but if they have ever experienced hunger till it begins to draw down the life itself, they will find the impulse of self preservation something not to be controlled by mere reason.  It is an instinct that takes possession of one in spite of himself.

I went down a narrow, dark canon high on both sides and perpendicular, and quite so in many places.  In one of the perpendicular portions it seemed to be a varigated clay formation, and a little water seeped down its face.  Here the Indians had made a clay bowl and fastened it to the wall so that it would collect and retain about a quart of water, and I had a good drink of water, the first one since leaving the running stream.  Near here I staid all night, for fear of Indians who I firmly believe would have taken my scalp had a good opportunity offered.  I slept without a fire, and my supply of meat just obtained drove hunger away.