Before it was entirely dark many who rode horses came along, many of them ladies, and following the custom of the country, they all rode astride.  Among this crowd was one middle-aged and somewhat corpulent old fellow, by profession a sea-captain, who put on many airs.  The old fellow put on his cool white coat—­in fact, a white suit throughout—­and in this tropical climate he looked very comfortable, indeed, thus attired.  He filled his breast pocket with fine cigars, and put in the other pocket a flask with some medicine in it which was good for snake bites, and also tending to produce courage in case the man, not used to horse-back riding, should find his natural spirits failing.  The rest of his luggage was placed on pack animals, and in fact the only way luggage was carried in those days was either on the backs of donkeys or men.

All was ready for a start, and the captain in his snow-white suit was mounted on a mule so small that his feet nearly touched the ground.  The little animal had a mind of his own, and at first did not seem inclined to start out readily, but after a bit concluded to follow his fellow animals, and all went well.

The rider was much amused at what he saw; sometimes a very lively monkey, sometimes a flock:  of paroquets or a high-colored lizard—­and so he rode along with a very happy air, holding his head up, and smoking a fragrant Havana with much grace.  The road was rough and rocky, with a mud-hole now and then of rather uncertain depth.  At every one of these mud-holes the Captain’s mule would stop, put down his head, blow his nose and look wise, and then carefully sound the miniature sea with his fore-feet, being altogether too cautious to suit his rider who had never been accustomed to a craft that was afraid of water.

At one of these performances the mule evidently concluded the sea before him was not safe, for when the captain tried to persuade him to cross his persuasions had no effect.  Then he coaxed him with voice gentle, soft and low, with the result that the little animal took a few very short steps and then came to anchor again.  Then the captain began to get slightly roiled in temper, and the voice was not so gentle, sweet and low, but it had no greater effect upon his craft.  He began to get anxious, for the others had gone on, and he thought perhaps he might be left.

Now, this sea-faring man had armed his heels with the large Spanish spurs so common in the country, and bringing them in contact with the force due to considerable impatience, Mr. Mule was quite suddenly and painfully aware of the result.  This was harsher treatment than he could peaceably submit to, and at the second application of the spurs a pair of small hoofs were very high in the air and the captain very low on his back in the mud and water, having been blown from the hurricane deck of his craft in a very sudden and lively style.  The philosophical mule stood very still and looked on while the white coat and pantaloons were changing to a dirty brown, and watched the captain as he waded out, to the accompaniment of some very vigorous swear words.