Our course now changed to south-west, and as the width and tortuousness began to decrease—­a sure indication that the country was rising—­we soon made another six miles.  But after this the boats could no further proceed—­the inlet, in short, having become a mere ditch at low-water.  The head of a large alligator was found on the bank near the upper part; where might be seen an occasional acacia mingled with the mangroves.  Behind, the country was very open, consisting of plains covered with coarse grass, interspersed with patches of dwarf gums.  About seven miles in an East by North direction the country was thickly wooded, and appeared to be a little higher—­the only interruption to the level monotony of the portion of the continent by which we were surrounded.  The soil was of a light brown colour void of sand, and of considerable depth.

Nothing now remained but to retrace our steps and try the other branch; and as our want of success in this case rather heightened our expectation we hurried back with some rapidity.  It was dark before we reached the point of separation, where the boat’s crew regaled themselves on some large brown hawks, in the absence of better fowl.  There was this evening a beautiful eclipse of the moon.  The temperature had again fallen to 60 degrees; at noon it was 87 degrees; and at four A.M. 52 degrees.

August 1.

As time and tide wait for no man we were obliged to move off at one in the morning.  The earth’s shadow having passed over the moon, the pale light of her full orb fell in a silvery stream on the tortuous reaches, as the waters swelled in silence between the growth of mangroves fringing the banks.

DISCOVERY OF THE ALBERT.

At the end of three miles in a West by South direction, nearly double by the windings, we passed an island on the left.  The depth at low-water, so far, being nearly 2 fathoms, and the width about 250 yards, promised well.  Water-tasting had now become rather out of fashion.  However, it so happened that one of the whaler’s crew put his hand over, and gave us the delightful news that the stream was quite fresh!  A general tasting followed, each being anxious to get the first draught of the water of our new-found river; and the agreeable intelligence was confirmed.  Of the importance of our discovery there could now no longer be any doubt, and the exhilarating effect it produced on all was quite magical, every arm stretching out as if the fatigue they had experienced had suddenly passed away.

There could be little difficulty in finding a name for our new discovery.  We had already called two rivers, explored by the Beagle’s officers, the Victoria and the Adelaide; and we were glad of such an opportunity of again showing our loyalty to Her Majesty, by conferring the name of her noble consort upon this important stream; it was accordingly christened The Albert.

The boats now glided rapidly onwards, and West by North another mile brought us to three islands, which we passed on the right; after landing for observations, with the stars Achernar and Aldebaran, at some earthy cliffs ten feet high on the left bank.  The river now wound round a point to the westward, three-quarters of a mile wide; in the first bend we passed four islands on the right, with a creek on either side, and towards the end of the next, two more on the left.