I cannot take leave of Cairo without paying the tribute due to the manner in which the streets are kept.  In passing along the narrow lanes and avenues before-mentioned, not one of the senses was shocked; dust, of course, there is every where, but nothing worse to be seen at least; and the sight and smell were not offended, as at Paris or even in London, when passing through the by-ways of either.  Altogether, if I may venture to pronounce an opinion, after so short a residence, I should say that, if our peaceful relations with Egypt should continue to be kept up, in no place will travellers be better received or entertained than in Cairo.

CHAPTER VI.

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THE DESERT.

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Equipage for crossing the Desert—­Donkey-chairs—­Sense of calmness and tranquillity on entering the Desert—­Nothing dismal in its aspect—­The Travellers’ Bungalow—­Inconvenient construction of these buildings—­Kafila of the Governor of Jiddah and his Lady—­Their Equipage—­Bedouins—­Impositions practised on Travellers—­Desert Travelling not disagreeable—­Report of the sailing of the Steamer—­Frequency of false reports—­Ease with which an infant of the party bore the journey—­A wheeled carriage crossing the Desert—­Parties of Passengers from Suez encountered—­One of Mr. Hill’s tilted Caravans—­Difficulty of procuring water at the Travellers’ Bungalow—­A night in the Desert—­Magnificent sunrise—­First sight of the Red Sea and the Town of Suez—­Miserable appearance of the latter—­Engagement of a Passage to Bombay.

We found the equipages in which we were to cross the desert waiting for us at the City of Tombs.  They consisted of donkey-chairs, one being provided for each of the females of the party, while my friend Miss E. had also an extra donkey, with a saddle, to ride upon occasionally.  Nothing could be more comfortable than these vehicles; a common arm-chair was fastened into a sort of wooden tray, which projected in front about a foot, thereby enabling the passenger to carry a small basket or other package; the chairs were then slung by the arms to long bamboos, one upon either side, and these, by means of ropes or straps placed across, were fastened upon the backs of donkeys, one in front, the other, behind.  Five long and narrow vehicles of this kind, running across the desert, made a sufficiently droll and singular appearance, and we did nothing but admire each other as we went along.  The movement was delightfully easy, and the donkeys, though not travelling at a quick pace, got on very well.  Our cavalcade consisted besides of two stout donkeys, which carried the beds and carpet-bags of the whole party, thus enabling us to send the camels a-head:  the three men-servants were also mounted upon donkeys, and there were three or four spare ones, in case any of the others should knock up upon the road.  In this particular it is proper to say that we were cheated, for had such an accident occurred, the extra-animals were so weak and inefficient, that they could not have supplied the places of any of those in use.  There were eight or ten donkey-men, and a boy; the latter generally contrived to ride, but the others walked by the side of the equipages.