Soon after the Megara had dropped anchor, a young officer from the Acheron, the steamer that had brought the mails from Gibraltar, came on board to inquire whether I was amongst the passengers, and gave me the pleasing intelligence that a lady, a friend of mine, who had left London a few days before me, was now in Malta, and would proceed to India in the vessel appointed to take the mails.  She was staying at Durnsford’s Hotel, a place to which I had been strongly recommended.  Mr. Goldsmith was kind enough to promise to see our heavy baggage on board the Volcano, the vessel under sailing orders; and a clergyman and his wife, resident in Malta, who had gone to Marseilles for a change of scene and air, inviting Miss E. and myself to accompany them on shore, we gladly accepted their offer.

We found a caless in waiting for us; a very singular description of vehicle, but one common to the island.  I had seen representations of these carriages in old engravings, but had not the least idea that they were still in use.  They have only two wheels, placed behind, so that the horse has to bear the weight of the vehicle as well as to draw it; and there is something so inexpressibly odd in the whole arrangement, that it put me in mind of the equipages brought on the stage in a Christmas pantomime.  Our caless held four persons very conveniently, and was really a handsome vehicle, gaily lined with scarlet leather, and having spring seats.  We saw others plying for hire, of a very inferior description; some only calculated for two persons, and of a faded and dilapidated appearance.  They seem to be dangerous conveyances, especially for the poor horse; we heard of one being upset, on a steep hill, and breaking the neck of the animal that drew it.  In driving, we were obliged to take rather a circuitous route to our inn, though the distance, had we walked, would have been very inconsiderable.  We were glad of the opportunity of seeing a little of the suburbs, and were almost sorry to arrive at the place of our destination.

As we came along we were delighted with the picturesque appearance of the Maltese women, whose national dress is at once nunlike and coquettish.  A black petticoat envelopes the form from the waist, and over that is thrown a singular veil, gathered into a hood, and kept out with a piece of whalebone.  This covering, which is called the faldetta, is capable of many arrangements, and is generally disposed so as to “keep one eye free to do its worst of witchery.”  When one of the poorer classes is enabled to clothe herself in a veil and petticoat of silk, she considers that she has gained the acme of respectability.  The streets of the city of Valetta are extremely narrow, and the houses high; a great advantage in such a climate, as it ensures shade, while, as they generally run at right angles, they obtain all the breeze that is to be had.