of the ticklish state of affairs in Egypt, that, finding plenty of room on board the Niagara, we engaged a couple of berths in the ladies’ cabins.  Mehemet Ali was represented to us as being so obstinately determined to retain possession of the Turkish fleet, and the British Government so urgent with France to support the Porte against him, that, if this intelligence was to be depended upon, no time ought to be lost.  It was with reluctance that I gave up my original intention of lingering on the road, and at Malta, but my unwillingness to run any risk of being shut out of Egypt prevailed.  After executing this necessary business, we engaged a carriage, and paying a visit to the British consul, drove about the town and its environs, being the more pleased the more we saw of both.  There appeared to be a deficiency of trees in the landscape, but a peculiar air of its own compensated for the want of foliage.

The private streets and houses of Marseilles are very regular and well built, nor did we see any portion of the town of a very inferior description.  I should have liked much to have remained a few weeks in it, and indeed regretted the rapidity of my journey through France, not being able to imagine any thing more delightful than a leisure survey of the country through which we passed.  I had been so strongly determined to make the overland trip to India, that I would have undertaken it quite alone, had I not met with a party to accompany me; some kind friends would not allow me, however, to make the experiment; nor do I recommend ladies, unless they are very well acquainted with the country, to travel through it without the protection of a gentleman, a courier, or a good servant.  Miss E. and myself performed the whole distance without a care or a thought beyond the objects on the road; but this we owed entirely to the attention of the gentleman who put us safely on board the Malta steamer, and who managed every thing for us upon the way, so that we were never in one single instance subjected to the slightest annoyance.

CHAPTER III.

* * * * *

MARSEILLES TO ALEXANDRIA.

* * * * *

Venations at the Custom-house—­Embarkation on the Malta Steamer—­Difficulties of exit from the Harbour—­Storm—­Disagreeable Motion of the Steam-vessel—­Passengers—­Arrival at Malta—­Description of the City—­Vehicles—­Dress of the Maltese Women—­State of Society—­Church of St. John—­The Palace—­The Cemetery of the Capuchin Convent—­Intolerance of the Roman Catholic Priesthood—­Shops, Cafes, and Hotels—­Manufactures and Products of Malta—­Heat of the Island—­Embarkation on board an English Government Steamer—­Passengers—­A young Egyptian—­Arrival at Alexandria—­Turkish and Egyptian Fleets—­Aspect of the City from the Sea—­Landing.

At twelve o’clock on the morning of the 21st