The clock struck five as we got on shore, and, much to our annoyance, we found that our first visit was to be paid to the customhouse.  Upon embarking at Arles, a gens-d’armes had laid his finger upon our baggage, and demanded our keys; but upon a remonstrance at the absurdity of a re-examination, after it had passed through the whole of France, he allowed it to be put on board inviolate.  Here, however, there was no escaping, and, tired as we were, and anxious to get to our hotel, we were obliged to submit to the delay.  Fortunately, we were the first arrivals, and the search not being very strict, we were not detained more than ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, which, under the circumstances, seemed an age.  The nearest hotel was of course our place of refuge, and we were fortunate in speedily ending a very good one, the Hotel des Embassadeurs, an immense establishment, exceedingly well-conducted in every respect.  Here we enjoyed the prospect of a night’s rest, having, during a hundred and ten hours, only had about ten, at two different periods, in bed.  Refreshed, however, by a change of dress, we had no inclination to anticipate the period of repose, but hurried our toilet, in order to join the dinner at the table-d’hote.

Marseilles struck us as being the handsomest and the cleanest town we had yet seen in France.  All the houses are spacious and lofty, built of white stone, and in good condition, while every portion of the city is well paved, either after the English fashion, or with brick, quite even, and inserted in a very tasteful manner.  Many of the streets are extremely wide, and some are adorned with handsome fountains.  The shops are very elegant, and much more decorated than those of any other place in France; some had paintings upon glass, richly gilded, on either side of the doors, handsome curtains hung down within, and the merchandise displayed was of the best description.  These shops were also well lighted, and together with the brilliant illuminations of the neighbouring cafes, gave the streets a very gay appearance.  We wandered about until rather a late hour; the cafes, both inside and outside, were crowded with gentlemen; but in the promenades we saw fewer ladies than we had expected, and came to the conclusion—­an erroneous one in all probability—­that French women stay very much at home.  Assuredly, the beauty of the night was most inviting; but, worn out at last, we were obliged to retire to our hotel.

The next day, we made inquiries concerning the steamers, and learned that the French boat was certainly to start on the following afternoon, the 21st, while the departure of the English vessel was uncertain, depending upon the arrival of the mails.  Though disappointed at finding that the French steamer did not touch at Naples, as I had been led to believe, I felt inclined to take my passage in her; but the advantage of being in time to meet the Bombay steamer at Suez was so strongly urged upon me, in consequence