Although the journey up the Seine from Havre proved very delightful to me, I do not recommend it to others, especially those to whom time is of importance.  There is always danger of detention, and the length of the sea-voyage, especially from London, may be productive of serious inconvenience.  For seeing the country, it is certainly preferable to the diligence, and my experience will teach those who come after me to inquire into the character of the steam-boat before they enter it.

CHAPTER II.

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PARIS TO MARSEILLES.

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Description of Paris—­Departure by the Diligence—­The Country—­The Vineyards—­Hotels and fare—­Arrival at Lyons—­Description of the City—­Departure in the Steam-boat for Arles—­Descent of the Rhone—­Beauty and Variety of the Scenery—­Confusion on disembarking at Beaucaire—­A Passenger Drowned—­Arrival at Arles—­Description of the Town—­Embarkation in the Steamer for Marseilles—­Entrance into the Mediterranean—­Picturesque approach to Marseilles—­Arrival in the Harbour—­Description of Marseilles—­Observations upon the Journey through France by Ladies.

A week’s residence in Paris does not give a stranger any title to decide upon the merits or demerits of that far-famed city.  The period of the year (September) was not the most favourable for a visit, all the best families having emigrated to their country habitations, and the city consequently exhibited a deserted air, at variance with every preconceived notion of the gaiety of the French capital.  The mixture of meanness and magnificence in the buildings, the dirt and bad smells, combine to give an unfavourable impression, which time only, and a better acquaintance with the more agreeable features of the place, can remove.

We had entertained a hope, upon our arrival in Paris, of getting the malle poste for our journey to Chalons; but it was engaged for at least a month in advance.  We were not more fortunate, our party now being reduced to three, in our endeavour to secure the coupe, and were obliged to be contented with places (corners) in the interior.  We despatched all our heavy goods—­that is, the portmanteaus—­by messagerie, to Marseilles, which was a great saving of trouble.  Though the expense of this conveyance is enormous, it has the great advantage of speed, travelling nearly as quickly as the diligence, while by the roulage, which is cheaper, very inconvenient delays may be incurred.

We quitted Paris on the 13th of September, well pleased with the treatment we had received.  Though the charges for lodging, washing, &c. were high, there was no attempt at imposition; our landlady would not allow us to pay any thing for the eighth day of our abode, although we thereby entered into another week.  We had the pleasure of leaving every body well satisfied with us, and willing to receive another English party.