THE CHITORE GATES.—­The further corner of this courtyard, on the left, leads to the Chitore gates, the trophies which Akbar placed there as a memorial of his capture of that great Rajput stronghold in 1657, after a desperate resistance by its gallant defenders.  They form the principal entrance to the Machhi Bhawan, the great courtyard behind the Diwan-i-am, but are generally kept closed.

THE HINDU TEMPLE.—­Beyond the Chitore gates you enter into another quadrangle surrounded by arcades, which recalls a different chapter in the chequered history of the palace.  Here is a Hindu temple, built by one of the Bharatpur Rajahs, who sacked Agra about the middle of the 18th century, and occupied it for ten years.

The Machhi Bhawan.

Returning now to the Diwan-i-am, we can ascend by one of the small staircases to the throne-room, and enter the upper arcades which surround the Machhi Bhawan, or “Fish Square.”  The courtyard has suffered so much from ruthless vandalism that it is difficult to realize its former magnificence.  It was formerly laid out in marble with flower-beds, water-channels, fountains, and fish-tanks.  These were carried off by the Jats to the palace of Suraj Mai, at Dig.  A large quantity of mosaic and exquisite marble fretwork, from this and other parts of the palace, was put up to auction by Lord William Bentinck, when Governor-General of India.  The Taj only escaped the same fate because the proceeds of this sale were unsatisfactory.

On the side opposite to the throne-room is an open terrace, originally roofed over and connected with the Diwan-i-khas.  This also was dismantled by the Jats.

THE NAJINA MASJID.—­On the left of the throne-room, at the end of the corridor, is a door leading into a small mosque of white marble, built by Aurangzib for the ladies of the zenana.  It is something like the Muti Masjid, but far inferior in design.

The further corner of it opens into a small chamber, overlooking the courtyard of the Diwan-i-am, which is pointed out by the guides as the prison where Shah Jahan was confined.  This may be accepted or not, according to the choice of the visitor.  When distinct historical authority is wanting, it is very difficult to distinguish real tradition and pure fable in the tales of these garrulous folk.  The historical evidence seems to show that Shah Jahan was not kept a close prisoner, but simply confined to certain apartments in the palace.

We will now pass over to the river side of the Machhi Bhawan, and approach that part of the palace which contains the Diwan-i-khas, or Hall of Private Audience, the Zanana and Mahal-i-khas, all built by Shah Jahan and occupied by him in the days of his royal state and sovereignty.  They rank with the Diwan-i-khas at Delhi as the most exquisite of Shah Jahan’s buildings.  From this classification I purposely omit the Taj, gleaming on the banks of the river lower down.  The Taj stands by itself.