of the Apennines. Returning to the shore, which
now begins to incline more westwardly, we come to
another swell of tufa, which has all the characteristic
fertility and abruptness of that peculiar formation,
a vast and populous town of near half a million of
souls being seated, in nearly equal parts, on the
limits of the plain and along the margin of the water,
or on the hill-sides, climbing to their summits.
From this point the northern side of the bay is a
confused mass of villages, villas, ruins, palaces,
and vines, until we reach its extremity, a low promontory,
like its opposite neighbor. A small island comes
next, a sort of natural sentinel; then the coast sweeps
northward into another and a smaller bay, rich to
satiety with relics of the past, terminating at a
point some miles further seaward, with a high, reddish,
sandy bluff, which almost claims to be a mountain.
After this we see two more islands lying westward,
one of which is flat, fertile, and more populous,
as is said, than any other part of Europe of the same
extent; while the other is a glorious combination
of pointed mountains, thronged towns, fertile valleys,
castles, country houses, and the wrecks of long-dormant
volcanoes, thrown together in a grand yet winning
confusion. If the reader will to this description
add a shore that has scarce a foot that is not interesting
with some lore of the past, extending from yesterday
into the darkest recesses of history, give life to
the water-view with a fleet of little latine-rigged
craft, rendered more picturesque by an occasional
ship, dot the bay with countless boats of fishermen,
and send up a wreath of smoke from the summit of the
cone-like mountain that forms the head of the bay,
he will get an outline of all that strikes the eye
as the stranger approaches Naples from the sea.
The zephyr was again blowing, and the daily fleet
of sparanaras, or undecked feluccas, that passes every
morning at this season, from the south shore to the
capital, and returns at this hour, was stretching out
from under Vesuvius; some looking up as high as Massa;
others heading toward Sorrento or Vico or Persano,
and many keeping more before the wind, toward Castel-a-Mare,
or the landings in that neighborhood. The breeze
was getting to be so fresh that the fishermen were
beginning to pull in toward the land, breaking up
their lines, which in some places had extended nearly
a league, and this, too, with the boats lying within
speaking distance of each other. The head of the
bay, indeed, was alive with craft moving in different
directions, while a large fleet of English, Russians,
Neapolitans, and Turks, composed of two-deckers, frigates,
and sloops, lay at their anchors in front of the town.
On board of one of the largest of the former was flying
the flag of a rear-admiral at the mizzen, the symbol
of the commander’s rank. A corvette alone
was under-way. She had left the anchorage an hour
before, and, with studding-sails on her starboard
side, was stretching diagonally across the glorious