In the afternoon the chief of M[=a]ther called to pay his respects, bringing a present of fruit and sheep’s milk; the latter I found so palatable, that I constantly drank it afterwards; it is considered very nutritious, and is a common beverage in Toorkisth[=a]n, where the sheep are milked regularly three times a day.  Goats are very scarce, cows not to be seen, but the sheep’s milk affords nourishment in various forms, of which the most common is a kind of sour cheese, being little better than curdled milk and salt.  Tea is also a favourite drink, but is taken without sugar or milk; the former is too expensive for the poorer classes, and all prefer it without the latter.  Sometimes a mixture such as would create dismay at an English tea-table is handed round, consisting principally of tea-leaves, salt, and fat, like very weak and very greasy soup, and to an European palate most nauseous.  We could never reconcile our ideas to its being a delicacy.  Tea is to be procured in all large towns hereabouts, of all qualities and at every price; at C[=a]bul the highest price for tea is L5 sterling for a couple of pounds’ weight; but this is of very rare quality, and the leaf so fine and fragrant that a mere pinch suffices a moderate party.

What would our tea-drinking old ladies say for a few pounds of that delicious treasure?  This superfine leaf reaches Cabul from China through Thibet, always maintaining its price; but it is almost impossible to procure it unadulterated, as it is generally mixed by the merchants with the lesser priced kind.  The most acceptable present which a traveller could offer in Toorkisth[=a]n would be fire-arms or tea; the latter is a luxury they indulge in to excess, taking it after every meal; but they seldom are enabled to procure it without the lawless assistance of the former.

On leaving M[=a]ther we commenced the ascent of the Kara Kotul or Black Pass, which lasted for seven long miles and was very fatiguing.  The large masses of rock on either side the pathway were of a deep brown colour.  From the length and steepness of the ascent, this pass must be higher than any we had hitherto surmounted; the descent on the other side is difficult in proportion.  The approach to Doa[=u]b is through one of the most romantic glens conceivable.  It is here that the Koollum river takes its rise; it flows due north and soon reaches a mountain meadow, where it unites with another stream coming from the east, whence the name of the Doa[=u]b (two waters) is given to this district.  In this defile are scattered huge rocks, which have been dislodged from the overhanging precipices by the effects of frost or convulsions of the elements:  in vain do these masses obstruct the progress of the waters of this river.  The torrent dashing in cataracts over some of the large boulders and eddying round the base of others, pursues an agitated course until it reaches the desert, through which it glides more calmly, and combines with the Oxus beyond Koollum, whence the confluent waters proceed uninterruptedly to the sea of Aral.