It seems that the heavy work in the quarries and the new railway gradings is done mainly by Italians.  That was a revelation.  We have the notion in our country that Italians never do heavy work at all, but confine themselves to the lighter arts, like organ-grinding, operatic singing, and assassination.  We have blundered, that is plain.

All along the river, near every village, we saw little station-houses for the future railway.  They were finished and waiting for the rails and business.  They were as trim and snug and pretty as they could be.  They were always of brick or stone; they were of graceful shape, they had vines and flowers about them already, and around them the grass was bright and green, and showed that it was carefully looked after.  They were a decoration to the beautiful landscape, not an offense.  Wherever one saw a pile of gravel or a pile of broken stone, it was always heaped as trimly and exactly as a new grave or a stack of cannon-balls; nothing about those stations or along the railroad or the wagon-road was allowed to look shabby or be unornamental.  The keeping a country in such beautiful order as Germany exhibits, has a wise practical side to it, too, for it keeps thousands of people in work and bread who would otherwise be idle and mischievous.

As the night shut down, the captain wanted to tie up, but I thought maybe we might make Hirschhorn, so we went on.  Presently the sky became overcast, and the captain came aft looking uneasy.  He cast his eye aloft, then shook his head, and said it was coming on to blow.  My party wanted to land at once—­therefore I wanted to go on.  The captain said we ought to shorten sail anyway, out of common prudence.  Consequently, the larboard watch was ordered to lay in his pole.  It grew quite dark, now, and the wind began to rise.  It wailed through the swaying branches of the trees, and swept our decks in fitful gusts.  Things were taking on an ugly look.  The captain shouted to the steersman on the forward log: 

“How’s she landing?”

The answer came faint and hoarse from far forward: 

“Nor’-east-and-by-nor’—­east-by-east, half-east, sir.”

“Let her go off a point!”

“Aye-aye, sir!”

“What water have you got?”

“Shoal, sir.  Two foot large, on the stabboard, two and a half scant on the labboard!”

“Let her go off another point!”

“Aye-aye, sir!”

“Forward, men, all of you!  Lively, now!  Stand by to crowd her round the weather corner!”

“Aye-aye, sir!”

Then followed a wild running and trampling and hoarse shouting, but the forms of the men were lost in the darkness and the sounds were distorted and confused by the roaring of the wind through the shingle-bundles.  By this time the sea was running inches high, and threatening every moment to engulf the frail bark.  Now came the mate, hurrying aft, and said, close to the captain’s ear, in a low, agitated voice: