Everything is on a large scale; the public buildings, for instance—­and they are architecturally imposing, too, as well as large.  The big squares have big bronze monuments in them.  At the hotel they gave us rooms that were alarming, for size, and parlor to match.  It was well the weather required no fire in the parlor, for I think one might as well have tried to warm a park.  The place would have a warm look, though, in any weather, for the window-curtains were of red silk damask, and the walls were covered with the same fire-hued goods—­so, also, were the four sofas and the brigade of chairs.  The furniture, the ornaments, the chandeliers, the carpets, were all new and bright and costly.  We did not need a parlor at all, but they said it belonged to the two bedrooms and we might use it if we chose.  Since it was to cost nothing, we were not averse to using it, of course.

Turin must surely read a good deal, for it has more book-stores to the square rod than any other town I know of.  And it has its own share of military folk.  The Italian officers’ uniforms are very much the most beautiful I have ever seen; and, as a general thing, the men in them were as handsome as the clothes.  They were not large men, but they had fine forms, fine features, rich olive complexions, and lustrous black eyes.

For several weeks I had been culling all the information I could about Italy, from tourists.  The tourists were all agreed upon one thing—­one must expect to be cheated at every turn by the Italians.  I took an evening walk in Turin, and presently came across a little Punch and Judy show in one of the great squares.  Twelve or fifteen people constituted the audience.  This miniature theater was not much bigger than a man’s coffin stood on end; the upper part was open and displayed a tinseled parlor—­a good-sized handkerchief would have answered for a drop-curtain; the footlights consisted of a couple of candle-ends an inch long; various manikins the size of dolls appeared on the stage and made long speeches at each other, gesticulating a good deal, and they generally had a fight before they got through.  They were worked by strings from above, and the illusion was not perfect, for one saw not only the strings but the brawny hand that manipulated them—­and the actors and actresses all talked in the same voice, too.  The audience stood in front of the theater, and seemed to enjoy the performance heartily.

When the play was done, a youth in his shirt-sleeves started around with a small copper saucer to make a collection.  I did not know how much to put in, but thought I would be guided by my predecessors.  Unluckily, I only had two of these, and they did not help me much because they did not put in anything.  I had no Italian money, so I put in a small Swiss coin worth about ten cents.  The youth finished his collection trip and emptied the result on the stage; he had some very animated talk with the concealed