MR. WHYMPER’S NARRATIVE

We started from Zermatt on the 13th of July, at half past five, on a brilliant and perfectly cloudless morning.  We were eight in number—­Croz (guide), old Peter Taugwalder (guide) and his two sons; Lord F. Douglas, Mr. Hadow, Rev. Mr. Hudson, and I. To insure steady motion, one tourist and one native walked together.  The youngest Taugwalder fell to my share.  The wine-bags also fell to my lot to carry, and throughout the day, after each drink, I replenished them secretly with water, so that at the next halt they were found fuller than before!  This was considered a good omen, and little short of miraculous.

On the first day we did not intend to ascend to any great height, and we mounted, accordingly, very leisurely.  Before twelve o’clock we had found a good position for the tent, at a height of eleven thousand feet.  We passed the remaining hours of daylight—­some basking in the sunshine, some sketching, some collecting; Hudson made tea, I coffee, and at length we retired, each one to his blanket bag.

We assembled together before dawn on the 14th and started directly it was light enough to move.  One of the young Taugwalders returned to Zermatt.  In a few minutes we turned the rib which had intercepted the view of the eastern face from our tent platform.  The whole of this great slope was now revealed, rising for three thousand feet like a huge natural staircase.  Some parts were more, and others were less easy, but we were not once brought to a halt by any serious impediment, for when an obstruction was met in front it could always be turned to the right or to the left.  For the greater part of the way there was no occasion, indeed, for the rope, and sometimes Hudson led, sometimes myself.  At six-twenty we had attained a height of twelve thousand eight hundred feet, and halted for half an hour; we then continued the ascent without a break until nine-fifty-five, when we stopped for fifty minutes, at a height of fourteen thousand feet.

We had now arrived at the foot of that part which, seen from the Riffelberg, seems perpendicular or overhanging.  We could no longer continue on the eastern side.  For a little distance we ascended by snow upon the are^te—­that is, the ridge—­then turned over to the right, or northern side.  The work became difficult, and required caution.  In some places there was little to hold; the general slope of the mountain was less than forty degrees, and snow had accumulated in, and had filled up, the interstices of the rock-face, leaving only occasional fragments projecting here and there.  These were at times covered with a thin film of ice.  It was a place which any fair mountaineer might pass in safety.  We bore away nearly horizontally for about four hundred feet, then ascended directly toward the summit for about sixty feet, then doubled back to the ridge which descends toward Zermatt.  A long stride round a rather awkward corner brought us to snow once more.  That last doubt vanished!  The Matterhorn was ours!  Nothing but two hundred feet of easy snow remained to be surmounted.