A great and priceless thing is a new interest!  How it takes possession of a man! how it clings to him, how it rides him!  I strode onward from the Schwarenbach hostelry a changed man, a reorganized personality.  I walked into a new world, I saw with new eyes.  I had been looking aloft at the giant show-peaks only as things to be worshiped for their grandeur and magnitude, and their unspeakable grace of form; I looked up at them now, as also things to be conquered and climbed.  My sense of their grandeur and their noble beauty was neither lost nor impaired; I had gained a new interest in the mountains without losing the old ones.  I followed the steep lines up, inch by inch, with my eye, and noted the possibility or impossibility of following them with my feet.  When I saw a shining helmet of ice projecting above the clouds, I tried to imagine I saw files of black specks toiling up it roped together with a gossamer thread.

We skirted the lonely little lake called the Daubensee, and presently passed close by a glacier on the right —­a thing like a great river frozen solid in its flow and broken square off like a wall at its mouth.  I had never been so near a glacier before.

Here we came upon a new board shanty, and found some men engaged in building a stone house; so the Schwarenbach was soon to have a rival.  We bought a bottle or so of beer here; at any rate they called it beer, but I knew by the price that it was dissolved jewelry, and I perceived by the taste that dissolved jewelry is not good stuff to drink.

We were surrounded by a hideous desolation.  We stepped forward to a sort of jumping-off place, and were confronted by a startling contrast:  we seemed to look down into fairyland.  Two or three thousand feet below us was a bright green level, with a pretty town in its midst, and a silvery stream winding among the meadows; the charming spot was walled in on all sides by gigantic precipices clothed with pines; and over the pines, out of the softened distances, rose the snowy domes and peaks of the Monte Rosa region.  How exquisitely green and beautiful that little valley down there was!  The distance was not great enough to obliterate details, it only made them little, and mellow, and dainty, like landscapes and towns seen through the wrong end of a spy-glass.

Right under us a narrow ledge rose up out of the valley, with a green, slanting, bench-shaped top, and grouped about upon this green-baize bench were a lot of black and white sheep which looked merely like oversized worms.  The bench seemed lifted well up into our neighborhood, but that was a deception—­it was a long way down to it.