Approach Grafting is the most favourable method of obtaining choice varieties of the vine, or of growing weak sorts on roots of a stronger growth.  The scion is generally grown in a pot.  A portion of the bark is cut from both scion and stock while the vine is in active growth, and the two wounded parts brought into contact, so that they fit exactly.  They are then tied together, and moss (kept constantly wet) is bound round the parts.  The union may be completed by the following spring, but it is safer to leave the cutting down of the stock to the point of union and the separation of the scion from the potted plant until the second spring.

Grafting Wax (Cobbetts), etc.—­Pitch and resin four parts each, beeswax two parts, tallow one part.  Melt and mix the ingredients, and use when just warm.  It may be rolled into balls and stored in a dry place.

Clay bands are frequently employed for excluding the air from wounds caused in the process of grafting.  These are liable to crack, unless the clay is well kneaded and mixed with wood ashes or dry horse droppings.

Grapes.—­The cultivation of Grapes in the open in our cloudy and changeable climate cannot be looked forward to with any certainty of success.  Two successive favourable seasons are indispensable—­one to ripen the wood, and the next to ripen the fruit.  Nevertheless, the highly ornamental foliage of the vine entitles it to a place on our walls, and every facility should be afforded for the production of a chance crop of fruit.  The soil most suited to the growth of the vine is a medium loam, with which is incorporated a quantity of crushed chalk and half-inch bones.  It should be given a south aspect, and be liberally supplied with water in dry seasons.  April is the best time to plant it, spreading the roots out equally about 9 in. below the surface of the soil, and mulching with 3 or 4 in. of manure.  Should mildew set in, syringe the vine with a mixture of soapsuds and sulphur.  To secure a continuance of fruit, cut out some of the old rods each year as soon as the leaves fall, and train young shoots in their places.  Last year’s shoots produce other shoots the ensuing summer, and these are the fruit-bearers.  One bunch of grapes is enough for a spur to carry.  Professional gardeners cast off the weight of the bunches, and allow 1 ft. of rod to each pound of fruit.  Tie or nail the bunches to the trellis or wall, and remove all branches or leaves that intercept light and air.

The vine may be increased by layers at the end of September.  Cut a notch at a bud, and bury it 4 or 5 in. deep, leaving two or three eyes above ground.  It may also be propagated by cuttings, about 1 ft. in length, of the last year’s growth, with 1 in. of old wood attached, taken the latter end of February.  Plant these deep in the ground, leaving one eye only above the surface.  Both the Black Hamburgh and Royal Muscadine ripen as well as any in the open.