up-stream for several days’ journey, except
during the dryest parts of the season. North
of this marshy plain lies the highland, the Plan Alto,
where the nights are cool and the climate healthy.
But I wish emphatically to record my view that these
marshy plains, although hot, are also healthy; and,
moreover, the mosquitoes, in most places, are not in
sufficient numbers to be a serious pest, although of
course there must be nets for protection against them
at night. The country is excellently suited for
settlement, and offers a remarkable field for cattle-growing.
Moreover, it is a paradise for water-birds and for
many other kinds of birds, and for many mammals.
It is literally an ideal place in which a field naturalist
could spend six months or a year. It is readily
accessible, it offers an almost virgin field for work,
and the life would be healthy as well as delightfully
attractive. The man should have a steam-launch.
In it he could with comfort cover all parts of the
country from south of Corumbra to north of Cuyaba
and Caceres. There would have to be a good deal
of collecting (although nothing in the nature of butchery
should be tolerated), for the region has only been
superficially worked, especially as regards mammals.
But if the man were only a collector he would leave
undone the part of the work best worth doing.
The region offers extraordinary opportunities for
the study of the life-histories of birds which, because
of their size, their beauty, or their habits, are
of exceptional interest. All kinds of problems
would be worked out. For example, on the morning
of the 3rd, as we were ascending the Paraguay, we
again and again saw in the trees on the bank big nests
of sticks, into and out of which parakeets were flying
by the dozen. Some of them had straws or twigs
in their bills. In some of the big globular nests
we could make out several holes of exit or entrance.
Apparently these parakeets were building or remodelling
communal nests; but whether they had themselves built
these nests, or had taken old nests and added to or
modified them, we could not tell. There was so
much of interest all along the banks that we were continually
longing to stop and spend days where we were.
Mixed flocks of scores of cormorants and darters covered
certain trees, both at sunset and after sunrise.
Although there was no deep forest, merely belts or
fringes of trees along the river, or in patches back
of it, we frequently saw monkeys in this riverine
tree-fringe—active common monkeys and black
howlers of more leisurely gait. We saw caymans
and capybaras sitting socially near one another on
the sandbanks. At night we heard the calling
of large flights of tree-ducks. These were now
the most common of all the ducks, although there were
many muscovy ducks also. The evenings were pleasant
and not hot, as we sat on the forward deck; there
was a waxing moon. The screamers were among the
most noticeable birds. They were noisy; they perched
on the very tops of the trees, not down among the
branches; and they were not shy. They should
be carefully protected by law, for they readily become
tame, and then come familiarly round the houses.
From the steamer we now and then saw beautiful orchids
in the trees on the river bank.