and big corrals. In the quadrangle were flamboyant
trees, with their masses of brilliant red flowers and
delicately cut, vivid-green foliage. Noisy oven-birds
haunted these trees. In a high palm in the garden
a family of green parakeets had taken up their abode
and were preparing to build nests. They chattered
incessantly both when they flew and when they sat or
crawled among the branches. Ibis and plover,
crying and wailing, passed immediately overhead.
Jacanas frequented the ponds near by; the peons, with
a familiarity which to us seems sacrilegious, but
to them was entirely inoffensive and matter of course,
called them “the Jesus Christ birds,”
because they walked on the water. There was a
wealth of strange bird life in the neighborhood.
There were large papyrus-marshes, the papyrus not
being a fifth, perhaps not a tenth, as high as in
Africa. In these swamps were many blackbirds.
Some uttered notes that reminded me of our own redwings.
Others, with crimson heads and necks and thighs, fairly
blazed; often a dozen sat together on a swaying papyrus-stem
which their weight bent over. There were all
kinds of extraordinary bird’s-nests in the trees.
There is still need for the work of the collector
in South America. But I believe that already,
so far as birds are concerned, there is infinitely
more need for the work of the careful observer, who
to the power of appreciation and observation adds
the power of vivid, truthful, and interesting narration—which
means, as scientists no less than historians should
note, that training in the writing of good English
is indispensable to any learned man who expects to
make his learning count for what it ought to count
in the effect on his fellow men. The outdoor
naturalist, the faunal naturalist, who devotes himself
primarily to a study of the habits and of the life-histories
of birds, beasts, fish, and reptiles, and who can
portray truthfully and vividly what he has seen, could
do work of more usefulness than any mere collector,
in this upper Paraguay country. The work of the
collector is indispensable; but it is only a small
part of the work that ought to be done; and after
collecting has reached a certain point the work of
the field observer with the gift for recording what
he has seen becomes of far more importance.
The long days spent riding through the swamp, the
“pantanal,” were pleasant and interesting.
Several times we saw the tamandua bandeira, the giant
ant-bear. Kermit shot one, because the naturalists
eagerly wished for a second specimen; afterward we
were relieved of all necessity to molest the strange,
out-of-date creatures. It was a surprise to us
to find them habitually frequenting the open marsh.
They were always on muddy ground, and in the papyrus-swamp
we found them in several inches of water. The
stomach is thick-walled, like a gizzard; the stomachs
of those we shot contained adult and larval ants,
chiefly termites, together with plenty of black mould
and fragments of leaves, both green and dry.