men and women, the men rivaling the women in their use of lace, silk, and satin.  Dr. John Bard, the fashionable doctor of his day, who attended Washington through the severe illness which laid him up for six weeks early in his administration, habitually wore a cocked hat and a scarlet coat, his hands resting upon a massive cane as he drove about in a pony-phaeton.  The scarlet waistcoat with large bright buttons which Jefferson wore on fine occasions, when he arrived on the scene, showed that he was not then averse to gay raiment.  Plain styles of dress were among the many social changes ushered in by the French Revolution and the war cycle that ensued from it.

Titles figured considerably in colonial society, and the Revolutionary War did not destroy the continuity of usage.  It was quite in accord with the fashion of the times that the courtesy title of Lady Washington was commonly employed in talk about the President’s household.  Mrs. Washington arrived in New York from Mount Vernon on May 27, 1789.  She was met by the President with his barge on the Jersey shore, and as the barge passed the Battery a salute of thirteen cannon was fired.  At the landing-place a large company was gathered, and the coach that took her to her home was escorted with military parade.  The questions of etiquette had been settled by that time, and she performed her social duties with the ease of a Virginia gentlewoman always used to good society.  She found them irksome, however, as such things had long since lost their novelty.  Writing to a friend she said, “I think I am more like a state prisoner than anything else.”  She was then a grandmother through her children by her first husband.  Although she preferred plain attire, she is described on one occasion as wearing a velvet gown over a white satin petticoat, her hair smoothed back over a moderately high cushion.  It was the fashion of the times for the ladies to tent their hair up to a great height.  At one of Mrs. Washington’s receptions, Miss McIvers, a New York belle, had such a towering coiffure that the feathers which surmounted it brushed a lighted chandelier and caught fire.  The consequences might have been serious had the fire spread to the pomatumed structure below, but one of the President’s aides sprang to the rescue and smothered the burning plumes between the palms of his hands before any harm came to the young lady.

Every Tuesday while Congress was in session Washington received visitors from three to four o’clock.  These receptions were known as his levees.  He is described as clad in black velvet; his hair was powdered and gathered behind in a silk bag; he wore knee and shoe buckles and yellow gloves; he held a cocked hat with a cockade and a black feather edging; and he carried a long sword in a scabbard of white polished leather.  As visitors were presented to him by an aide, Washington made a bow.  To a candid friend who reported to him that his bows were considered to be too stiff, he replied:  “Would it not have been better to throw the veil of charity over them, ascribing their stiffness to the effects of age, or to the unskillfulness of my teacher, rather than to pride and dignity of office, which God knows has no charm for me?” Washington bore with remarkable humility the criticisms of his manners that occasionally reached him.