I saw one horse that looked exactly like a plaster statuette.  His master had scrubbed him down, but before he dried the white dust had settled on him everywhere.  Naturally humans do not escape.  By the time our party reached the Headquarters of General Petain we had joined the White Brigade.  I excused myself to the General, who smilingly replied:  “Why complain, Mademoiselle, you are charming; your hair is powdered like that of a Marquise.”  The contrast with what had been a black fur cap on what was now perfectly white hair justified his compliment.  I have never been renowned in my life for fear of any individual, but I must admit that I passed into the presence of General Petain with a great deal of respect amounting almost to awe.  The defence of Verdun through the bitter months of February and March by General Petain, a defence which is now under the immediate control of his able lieutenants General Nivelle and General Dubois, has earned the respect and admiration of the whole world.  It is impossible not to feel the deepest admiration for these men who have earned such undying glory, not only for themselves, but for their Motherland.

No one could have been more gracious and kind than General Petain, and in his presence one realised the strength and power of France.  Throughout all the French Headquarters one is impressed by the perfect calm; no excitement; everything perfectly organised.

General Petain asked me at once to tell him what I desired.  I asked his permission to go to Rheims.  He at once took up a paper which permitted me to enter the war zone and endorsed it with the request to General Debeney in Rheims to allow me to penetrate with my companions into the city.  He then turned to me again and asked me, with a knowing smile, if that was all I required—­for his Headquarters were hardly on the direct road to Rheims!  I hesitated to express my real wish, when my good counsellor and friend, with whom I was making the journey, the Commandant Jean de Pulligny, answered for me:  “I feel sure it would be a great happiness and honour if you would allow us, General, to go to Verdun.”  General Petain appeared slightly surprised, and turning to me asked:  “Do you thoroughly realise the danger?  You have crossed the Atlantic and faced submarines, but you will risk more in five minutes in Verdun than in crossing the Atlantic a thousand times.”  However, seeing that I was really anxious to go, and that it might be of great service to me in my future work to have seen personally the defence of Verdun, he added smilingly:  “Well then, you can go if you wish at your own risk and peril.”  He then telephoned to General Nivelle the necessary permission for us to enter Verdun.

I doubt whether General Petain realises the respect in which he is held in all the civilised countries of the world.  Probably he does not yet understand that people would come thousands of miles to have five minutes’ audience with him, for he enquired if we were in any hurry to continue our journey, and added with charming simplicity—­“Because if not, and you do not mind waiting an hour, I shall be glad if you will lunch with me.”