Then through a hole I had a glimpse of an abandoned road, where no man might live, and beyond it a vast wire entanglement.  Then we curved, and I was in an open place, a sort of redoubt contrived out of little homes and cattle-stables.  I heard irregular rifle-fire close by, but I could not see who was firing I was shown the machine-gun chamber, and the blind which hides the aperture for the muzzle was lifted, but only momentarily.  I was shown, too, the deep underground refuges to which every body takes in case of a heavy bombardment.  Then we were in the men’s quarters, in houses very well protected by advance walls to the north, and at length we saw some groups of men.

“Bonjour, les poilus!”

This from the Commandant himself, with jollity.  The Commandant had a wonderful smile, which showed bright teeth, and his gestures were almost as quick as those of his Lieutenant, whom the regiment had christened “The Electric Man.”

The soldiers saluted.  This salute was so proud, so eager, that it might have brought tears to the eyes.  The soldiers stood up very straight, but not at all stiffly.  I noticed one man, because I could not notice them all.  He threw his head back, and slightly to one side, and his brown beard stuck out.  His eyes sparkled.  Every muscle was taut.  He seemed to be saying, “My Commandant, I know my worth; I am utterly yours—­you won’t get anything better.”  A young officer said to me that these men had in them a wild beast and an angel.  It was a good saying, and I wished I had thought of it myself.  This regiment had been in this village since the autumn.  It had declined to be relieved.  It seemed absolutely fresh.

One hears that individual valour is about the same in all armies—­ everywhere very high.  Events appear to have justified the assertion.  German valour is astounding.  I have not seen any German regiment, but I do not believe that there are in any German regiment any men equal to these men.  After all, ideas must count, and these men know that they are defending an outraged country, while the finest German soldier knows that he is outraging it.

The regiment was relatively very comfortable.  It had plenty of room.  It had made a little garden, with little terra-cotta statues.  It possessed also a gymnasium ground, where we witnessed some excellent high jumping; and—­more surprising—­a theatre, with stage, dressing-room, and women’s costumes.

The summit of our excitement was attained when we were led into the first-line trench.

“Is this really the first-line trench?”

“It is.”