of Pietro Bembo;[371] then they crossed the Grisons by the Bernina and Albula passes.  We hear nothing about this part of the journey, except that the snow was heavy, and that they ran great danger of their lives.  Cellini must have traversed some of the most romantic scenery of Switzerland at the best season of the year; yet not a word escapes him about the beauty of the Alps or the wonder of the glaciers, which he saw for the first time.  The pleasure we derive from contemplating savage scenery was unknown to the Italians of the sixteenth century; the height and cold, the gloom and solitude of mountains struck them with a sense of terror or of dreariness.  On the Lake of Wallenstadt Cellini met with a party of Germans, whom he hated as cordially as an Athenian of the age of Pericles might have loathed the Scythians for their barbarism.[372] The Italians embarked in one boat, the Germans in another; Cellini being under the impression that the Northern lakes would not be so likely to drown him as those of his own country.  However, when a storm swept down the hills, he took a terrible fright, and compelled the boatmen at the point of the poniard to put him and his company ashore.  The description of their struggles to drag their heavily laden horses over the uneven ground near Wesen, is extremely graphic, and gives a good notion of the dangers of the road in those days.[373] That night they “heard the watch sing at all hours very agreeably; and as the houses of that town were all of wood, he kept bidding them to take care of their fires.”  Next day they arrived, not without other accidents, at Zurich, “a marvellous city, as clear and polished as a jewel.”  Thence by Solothurn, Lausanne, Geneva, and Lyons, they made their way to Paris.

This long and troublesome journey led to nothing, for Cellini grew weary of following the French Court about from place to place; his health too failed him, and he decided that he would rather die in Italy than France.[374] Accordingly he returned to Rome, and there, not long after his arrival, he was arrested by the order of Pope Paul III.[375] The charge against him, preferred by one of his own prentices, was this.  During the siege of Rome, he had been employed by Clement to melt down the tiaras and papal ornaments, in order that the precious stones might be conveyed away in secrecy.  He did so; and afterwards confessed to having kept a portion of the gold filings found in the cinders of his brazier during the operation.  For this crime Clement gave him absolution.[376] Now, however, he was accused of having stolen gold and jewels to the amount of nearly eighty thousand ducats.  “The avarice of the Pope, but more that of his bastard, then called Duke of Castro,” inclined Paul to believe this charge; and Pier Luigi was allowed to farm the case.  Cellini was examined by the Governor of Rome and two assessors; in spite of his vehement protestations of innocence, the absence of any evidence against him, and the sound arguments