but there is much worth seeing inside its walls, the
flying buttresses of the super-structure, some old
and interesting frescoes, and a system of dome construction
that is quite remarkable. To the latter, my attention
was first called by General Ludlow, a distinguished
engineer officer of the United States Army, then acting
as governor of the city. To him belongs, although
it is very rarely given, the credit for the cleansing
of Havana during the First Intervention. He frequently
visited the old convent just to see and study that
interior dome construction. Immediately behind
the Palace is the old convent of the Dominicans, less
imposing but of about the same period as the Franciscan
structure. It is now used as a high-school building.
The Cathedral, a block to the northward of the Dominican
convent building, is of a much later date, having been
begun as recently as 1742. It was originally
the convent of the Jesuits, but became the Cathedral
in 1789. Many have believed, on what seems to
be acceptable evidence, that here for more than a
hundred years rested the bones of Christopher Columbus.
He died in Valladolid in 1506, and was buried there.
His remains were removed to the Carthusian Monastery,
in Seville, in 1513. From there they are said
to have been taken, in 1536, to the city of Santo
Domingo, where they remained until 1796, when they
were brought to Havana and placed in a niche in the
walls of the old Cathedral, there to remain until
they were taken back to Spain in 1898. There is
still an active dispute as to whether the bones removed
from Santo Domingo to Havana were or were not those
of Columbus. At all events, the urn supposed to
contain them was in this building for a hundred years,
below a marble slab showing a carving of the voyager
holding a globe, with a finger pointing to the Caribbean.
Beneath this was a legend that has been thus translated:
OH! REST THOU, IMAGE OF THE GREAT
COLON,
THOUSAND CENTURIES REMAIN, GUARDED IN
THE URN,
AND IN THE REMEMBRANCE OF OUR NATION.
In this neighborhood, to the east of the Plaza de
Armas, on which the Palace fronts, is a structure
known as El Templete. It has the appearance
of the portico of an unfinished building, but it is
a finished memorial, erected in 1828. The tradition
is that on this spot there stood, in 1519, an old
ceiba tree under which the newly arrived settlers celebrated
their first mass. The yellow Palace, for many
years the official headquarters and the residence
of successive Governors-General, stands opposite, and
speaks for itself. In this building, somewhat
devoid of architectural merit, much of Cuba’s
history, for the last three-quarters of a century,
has been written. The best time to see all this
and much more that is to be seen, is the early morning,
before the wheels begin to go around. The lights
and shadows are then the best, and the streets are
quieter and less crowded. The different points
of interest are easily located by the various guide