The British are better supplied with the food of the country, wherever they are, than the French, because it is their theory and practice to pay as they go; whereas it is the French, or at least the Bonapartist theory and practice, to “make the war support itself,” that is, to live upon the people of the country.  In the Peninsular War, the French often found themselves in a desert where they could not stay; whereas, when Wellington and his troops followed upon their steps, the peasants reappeared from all quarters, bringing materials for a daily market.  In the Crimea, the faithful and ready payments of the English commissariat insured plenty of food material, in the form of cattle and flour, biscuit and vegetables.  The defect was in means of transport for bringing provisions to the camp.  The men were trying to eat hard salt meat and biscuit, when scurvy made all eating difficult, while herds of cattle were waiting to be slaughtered, and ship-loads of flour were lying seven miles off.  Whole deck-loads of cabbages and onions were thrown into the sea, while the men in camp were pining for vegetable food.  An impracticable track lay between; and the poor fellows died by thousands before the road could be made good, and transport-animals obtained, and the food distributed among the tents and huts.  Experience taught the officers that the food should be taken entire charge of by departments of the army till it was actually smoking in the men’s hands.  There were agents, of course, in all the countries round, to buy up the cattle, flour, and vegetables needed.  The animals should be delivered at appointed spots, alive and in good condition, that there might be no smuggling in of joints of doubtful character.  There should be a regular arrangement of shambles, at a proper distance from the tents, and provided with a special drainage, and means of disposing instantly of the offal.  Each company in the camp should have its kitchen, and one or two skilled cooks,—­one to serve on each day, with perhaps two assistants from the company.  After the regular establishment of the kitchens, there was always food ready and coffee procurable for the tired men who came in from the trenches or outpost duty; and it was a man’s own fault, if he went without a meal when off duty.

It was found to be a grave mistake to feed the soldiers on navy salt beef and pork.  Corned beef and pork salted for a fortnight have far more nourishment and make much less waste in the preparation than meat which is salted for a voyage of months.  After a time, very little of the hard salted meat was used at all.  When it was, it was considered essential to serve out peas with the pork, and flour, raisins, and suet, for a pudding, on salt-beef days.  In course of time there were additions which made considerable variety:  as rice, preserved potatoes, pressed vegetables, cheese, dried fruits and suet for puddings, sugar, coffee properly roasted, and malt liquor.  Beer and porter answer much better than any kind of