I did not wish to add an extra burden to the overloaded animal, but it was no time for the exercise of sentiment.  So I held up a two-franc piece to the driver.  He looked at the coin, then he looked at the horse, and then, picking out the meekest and the most inoffensive of his free passengers, he bade him get off and motioned me to take the vacated seat at my right as a first-class paying passenger.  Two francs was the fare, and he seemed highly gratified with the sum, little realizing that he could just as well have had two hundred francs for that seat.  We stopped once more to hitch on a small wood-cart, and with that bumping behind us, we trailed along fearfully slowly.  Gladly would I have offered a generous bounty to have him urge his horse along, but I feared to excite suspicion by too lavish an outlay of money.  So I sat tight and let my feet dangle off the side, glad of the relief, but feeling them slowly swelling beneath me.

I was saving my head as well as my feet, for the perpetual matching of one’s wits in encounters with the guards was continually nerve-frazzling.  But now as the cart joggled past, the guard made a casual survey of us all, taking it for granted that I was one of the local inhabitants.  For this respite from constant inquisition I was indebted to the dust, grime and sweat that covered me.  It blurred out all distinction between myself and the peasants, forming a perfect protective coloration.

To slide past so many guards so easily was a net gain indeed.  However, the end of such easy passing came at the edge of Charrate, where the driver turned into his yard, and I was dumped down into an encampment of soldiers.  Acting on the militarists’ dictum that the best defensive is a strong offensive I pushed my way boldly into the midst of a group gathered round a pump and made signs that I desired a drink.  At first they did not understand, or, thinking that I was a native Belgian, they were rather taken aback by such impertinence; but one soldier handed me his cup and another pumped it full.  I drank it, and, thanking them, started off.  This calm assurance gained me passage past the guard, who had stood by watching the procedure.  In the next six hundred yards I was brought to a standstill by a sudden “Halt!” At one of the posts some soldiers were ringed around a prisoner garbed in the long black regulation cassock of a priest.  Though he wore a white handkerchief around his arm as a badge of a peaceful attitude, he was held as a spy.  His hands and his eyes were twitching nervously.  He seemed to be glad to welcome the addition of my company into the ranks of the suspects, but he was doomed to disappointment, for I was passed along.  The next guard took me to his superior officer directly.  But the superior officer was the incarnation of good humor and he was more interested in a little repast that was being made ready for him than in entering into the questions involved in my case.

“Search him for weapons,” he said casually, while he himself made a few perfunctory passes over my pockets.  No weapons being found, he said, “Let him go.  We’ve done damage here enough.”