Wanderings in Wessex eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 332 pages of information about Wanderings in Wessex.

Wanderings in Wessex eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 332 pages of information about Wanderings in Wessex.

A little over two miles away, and on the road to the Rufus Stone, is Minstead church, which will make a different appeal to the understanding stranger.  This is (or was lately) a charming survival from the days of our grandfathers with a three-decker, old room-like pews, and double galleries.  Malwood Lodge, close by, is a seat of the Harcourt family, and not far away, about a mile and a half from Minstead church, is the spot where William Rufus was killed by that mysterious arrow which by accident or design, relieved England of a tyrannical and wicked king.  The “Rufus Stone,” as the iron memorial is called, with its terse and non-committal inscription was placed here by a former Lord de la Warr.  The body was conveyed to Winchester in the cart of a charcoal-burner named Purkiss, and descendants of this man, still following his occupation, were living within bow-shot of the memorial one hundred years ago.  The family “enjoyed for centuries the right to the taking of all such wood as they could gather by hook or by crook, dead branches, and what could be broken, but not cut by the axe.”  It is said that the train of accidents that befell the Conqueror’s family in the Forest was considered by Hampshire folk to be a just retribution for his iniquity in “making” it.  His grandson Henry, his second son Richard, and lastly his third son Rufus, all met a violent death within its glades.

A short distance westwards we reach the “Compton Arms Hotel” and Stoney Cross, from which an alternate route through beautiful Boldrewood can be taken back to Lyndhurst or a long and lonely but good road followed all the way to Ringwood, nine miles away on the Avon.  The traveller who would explore the recesses of the forest remote from the beaten track should make his way north and west from Stoney Cross through the sandy heaths of Eyeworth Walk and the mysterious depths of Sloden with its dark yews of great and unknown age.  Not far from Stoney Cross on the way to Fritham, are a number of prehistoric graves clustered closely together, and an interesting relic of the Roman occupation exists at Sloden where there are mounds of burnt earth, charcoal, and broken pottery.  The locality has long been known as “Crock Hill” and is evidently the site of an earthenware factory.  The road going south and west by Broomy Walk leads to Fordingbridge on the Avon.  Here is a beautiful and interesting old church, a typically pleasant Hampshire town, and a quiet but delightful stretch of the river.

The straight high road, that runs south from Lyndhurst through the thick woodlands of Irons Hill Walk and the giant oaks of Whitley Wood, reaches Brockenhurst in four miles.  This small town, to the writer’s mind, is pleasanter and less sophisticated than Lyndhurst, though boarding-houses are as much in evidence and the railway station is close to the main street.  The church stands on a low hill among the trees of the actual forest.  Here was recently to be seen, and possibly is still, a quaintly ugly survival in the squire’s pew, placed as a sort of royal box at the entrance to the chancel.  The building is of various dates and contains a Norman font of Purbeck marble.  The enormous yew of great age will at once be noticed in the churchyard.

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Wanderings in Wessex from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.