The expensive eccenticities of Beckford—­he was a collector of everything costly—­brought about the sale of Fonthill and a retirement to Bath.  Not long after the new owner, a millionaire named Farquhar, had entered into possession, the central tower fell and ruined most of the “gingerbread” beneath.  Perhaps the best thing Wyatt ever did was his architectural work in the foundations of this sham “abbey.”

The present Fonthill House has a small portion of Wyatt’s building incorporated with it.  Half a mile away is the new Fonthill Abbey (so-called).  It was erected by the Marquis of Westminster in 1859 and is in the Scottish Baronial style.  The situation, overlooking a sheet of water formed out of one of the feeders of the Nadder, is beautiful in the extreme.  To the north-west is Beckford’s Tower—­one of the many he built (he is buried under one of them at Bath)—­from which there is a glorious view of the hills, woods and waters of this fair country side.  Hindon, about two miles north-west of Fonthill Giffard, is a small town fallen from the ancient state that it held when it refused Disraeli the honour of representing it in Parliament.  Its pleasant situation in the midst of the wooded hills that surround it on all sides, the quiet old houses and dreamy main street beneath the shady trees that were planted in honour of the marriage of Edward VII, make its only claim on the notice of the passing tourist.  Not far from Hindon and about three miles from Fonthill Giffard is East Knoyle, the birthplace of Sir Christopher Wren in 1632.  He was a son of its rector.

From Tisbury a road goes eastwards down the valley of the Nadder through the small hamlet of Chicksgrove to Teffont Evias, or Ewyas, the name of the former lords of the manor.  This village is most delightfully situated on high ground above the Nadder.  The sixteenth-century manor house, the rectory and the beautiful church, are all of much interest.  The church was built in the fifteenth century and has a fine western tower and spire.  The Ley Chapel contains a number of monuments to that family, and the mosaics representing the Angelic Choir over the east window strike an uncommon note for a country church.  Beyond Teffont Magna, where there is a very small and ancient church, are the famous quarries which supplied some of the stone for Salisbury Cathedral and were almost certainly worked by the Romans.  They are now roomy caverns, that, like Tilly Whim at Swanage, have every appearance of being natural.

Continuing towards Salisbury, the first village passed through is Dinton, the birthplace of Clarendon, historian of the Civil War.  Then comes Baverstock, with a restored Decorated church, and lastly, before reaching Wilton, Barford St. Martin.  Here is an Early English cruciform church with one or two interesting features, including an ancient effigy near the altar, in what appears to be a winding sheet.  The road through these villages, or rather tapping them—­the