genuine Roman camp inside an older trench. Large
quantities of pottery and coins belonging to the Roman
period have been found here and are stored in various
collections. The way is now picturesquely beautiful
as it goes by Steepleton Iwerne, that has a little
church lost behind the only house in the hamlet, and
Iwerne Courtenay. The last-named village is off
the main road to the left, but a by-path can be taken
which leads through it. The poorly designed Perpendicular
church (with a Decorated tower) was erected, or rather
rebuilt, as late as 1641. The building is famous
as the prison for those guerilla fighters of the Civil
War called “Clubmen,” who consisted mostly
of better class farmers and yeomanry. They had
assembled on Hambledon Hill, the great entrenched
eminence to the west of the village, and seem to have
been officered by the country clergy. At least
they appear to have greatly chagrined Cromwell, although
he spoke of them in a very disparaging way, and deprecated
their fighting qualities. Iwerne Minster, the
next village on the road, possesses a very fine cruciform
church of dates varying from Norman to Perpendicular,
though the main structure is in the later style.
The stone spire is rare for Dorset. Iwerne Minster
House is a modern mansion in a very beautiful park
and is the residence of one of the Ismays of steamship
fame. Sutton Waldron has a modern church, but
Fontmell Magna, two miles from Iwerne Minster, will
profitably detain the traveller. Here is an actual
village maypole, restored of course, and a beautiful
Perpendicular church, also restored, but unspoilt.
The lofty tower forms an exquisite picture with the
mellow roofs of the village, the masses of foliage,
and the surrounding hills. The fine east window
is modern and was presented by Lord Wolverton, a one-time
Liberal Whip, who was a predecessor of the Ismays
at Iwerne Minster House. The west window is to
his memory. Compton Abbas, a mile farther, has
a rebuilt church. The charm of the situation,
between Elbury Hill and Fontmell Down, will be appreciated
as the traveller climbs up the slope beyond the village
toward Melbury Down (863 feet), another fine view-point.
As the road descends to the head waters of the Stour,
glimpses of the old town on St. John’s Hill
are occasionally obtained on the left front and, after
another stiff climb, we join the Salisbury road half
a mile short of High Street.
Shaftesbury is not only Shaston to Mr. Hardy, but to the natives also, and, as will be seen presently, it had at least two other names in the distant past. It is one of the most romantically placed inland towns in England and would bear comparison with Bridgenorth, were it not that the absence of a broad river flowing round the base of the hill entirely alters the character of the situation. According to Geoffrey of Monmouth it was founded by Hudibras, son of the builder of Caerleon, and was called Mount Paladur (Palladour). It was without doubt a Roman town, as the foundations