diameter, lying at a depth of thirty-five yards.
Into this narrow receptacle the vast river precipitated
itself. When Dr. Livingston visited the spot,
the Zambese flowed through its narrowest channel,
and its waters were at their lowest. The effect,
however, of its sudden contraction and fall was in
the highest degree sublime, and, from the point at
which he surveyed it, appalling. For, not satisfied
with a distant view of the opening through its rocky
barrier, and of the columns of vapour rushing up for
300 to 400 feet, forming a spreading cloud, and then
falling in perpetual rain, he engaged a native, with
nerves as strong as his own and expert in the management
of the canoe, to paddle him down the river, here heaving,
eddying, and fretting, as if reluctant to approach
the gorge and hurl itself down the precipice to an
islet immediately above the fall, and from one point
of which he could look over its edge into the foaming
caldron below, mark the mad whirl of its waters, and
stand in the very focus of its vapoury columns and
its deafening roar. But unique and magnificent
as was the cataract when Dr. Livingston beheld it,
the reports of others, and the inference drawn by
himself, satisfied him that the spectacle was tame
compared with what occurs during the rainy season,
when the river flows between banks many miles apart,
and still forces its augmented waters through the same
fissure into the same trough. At these times the
columns of spray may be seen, and the sound heard
ten or twelve miles distant.”
My traps are all in the ferry-boat: I have crossed
the river, been wound up the opposite bank, paid my
fare, and am hissing away for Rochester. What
thoughts does Rochester give rise to? If you are
a commercial man, you will conjure up visions of activity
and enterprise; if you are an inquirer into mysteries
and manners, your dreams will be of “spirit-rapping
and Bloomers.” Coming fresh from Buffalo,
I confess I was rather interested in the latter.
But here I am at the place itself, and lodged in an
hotel wonderfully handy to the station; and before
the front door thereof railways are interlaced like
the meshes of a fisherman’s net. Having
no conversable companion, I take to my ever faithful
and silent friend, the fragrant cigar, and start for
a stroll. There is a bookseller’s shop
at the corner; I almost invariably feel tempted to
stop when passing a depot for literature, especially
in a strange place; but on the present occasion a
Brobdignagian notice caught my eye, and gave me a
queer sensation inside my waistcoat—“Awful
smash among the Banks!” Below, in more Lilliputian
characters, followed a list of names. I had just
obtained notes of different banks for my travelling
expenses, and I knew not how many thereof might belong
to the bankrupt list before me; a short examination
sufficed, and with a quieted mind, I continued my
stroll and my cigar.