the Flood. I have never before or since tasted
such delicious wine, and in such profusion, and everybody
stuck to it with such leech-like tenacity. On
one occasion, having sat down to dinner at two o’clock,
I found myself getting up from table half an hour
after midnight, and quite as fresh as when I had sat
down. There was no possibility of leaving the
hospitable old General’s mahogany.[AD] One kind
friend, Mr. C.H. Fisher, insisted that I must
make his house my hotel, either he or his wife were
always at dinner at four o’clock, and my cover
was always laid. The society of his amiable lady
and himself made it too tempting an offer to refuse,
and I need scarcely say, it added much to the pleasure
of my stay in Philadelphia. The same kind friend
had also a seat for me always in his box at the opera,
where that most charming and lady-like of actresses,
the Countess Rossi,[AE] with her sweet voice, was gushing
forth soft melody to crammed houses. On every
side I met nothing but kindness. Happening one
day at dinner to mention incidentally, that I thought
the butter unworthy of the reputation of Philadelphia—for
it professes to stand pre-eminent in dairy produce—two
ladies present exclaimed, “Well!” and
accompanied the expression by a look of active benevolence.
The next morning, as I was sitting down to breakfast,
a plate arrived from each of the rivals in kindness;
the dew of the morning was on the green leaf, and
underneath, such butter as my mouth waters at the
remembrance of, and thus it continued during my whole
stay. The club doors, with all its conveniences—and
to a solitary stranger they are very great—were
thrown open to me: in short, my friends left
me nothing to wish, except that my time had permitted
me a longer enjoyment of their hospitalities.
The streets of Philadelphia, which run north and south
from the Schuylkill to the Delaware, are named after
the trees, a row whereof grow on each side; but whether
from a poetic spirit, or to aid the memory, some of
the names are changed, that the following couplet,
embracing the eight principal ones, may form a handy
guide to the stranger or the resident:—
“Chestnut, walnut, spruce, and pine,
Market, arch, race, and vine.”
Mulberry, and sassafras, and juniper, would have dished
the poetry. The cross-streets are all called
by numbers; thus any domicile is readily found.
The principal traverse street is an exception, being
called “Broad;” it looks its name well,
and extends beyond the town into the country:
strange as it may seem to those who associate stiff
white bonnets, stiff coat-collars, and broad-brimmed
hats, with Philadelphia, on the extremity of this
street every Sunday afternoon, all the famous trotters
may be seen dashing along at three-minute pace.
The country round about is pretty and undulating,
and the better-to-do inhabitants of Philadelphia have
very snug little country places, in which they chiefly
reside during the summer, and to which, at other seasons,
they often adjourn upon the Saturday, to enjoy the
quiet of Sunday in the country.