amongst the sickly vines, or the vigorous young plants
which promised in a few years to make the stony soil
flow once more with purple juice, were the small white
houses of the wine-growers. Where I could, I walked
in the shade of walnut and mulberry trees, for the
heat was great, and the rain that had fallen rose
like steam in the sun-blaze from the herbage and the
golden stubble. In this low valley all corn except
maize had been gathered in, and Nature was resting,
after her labour, with the smile of maternity on her
face. Nevertheless, this stillness of the summer’s
fulfilment, this pause in the energy of production,
is saddening to the wayfarer, to whom the vernal splendour
of the year and the time of blossoming seem like the
gifts of yesterday. The serenity of the burnished
plains now prompts him upward, where he hopes to overtake
the tarrying spring upon the cool and grassy mountains.
Although the mountains towards which I was now bearing
were the melancholy and arid Cevennes, I wished the
distance less that lay between me and their barren
flanks, where the breeze would be scented with the
bloom of lavender. There were flowers along the
wayside here, but they were the same that I had been
seeing for many a league, and they reminded me too
forcibly of the rapid flight of the summer days by
their haste—their unnecessary haste, as
I thought—in passing from the flower to
the seed. A sprig of lithosperm stood like a little
tree laden with Dead Sea fruit, for the naked seeds
clung hard and flinty where the flowers had been.
The glaucium, although still blooming, had put forth
horns nine inches long, and the wild barley, so lately
green, was now a brown fringe along the dusty road.
And thus all these familiar forms of vegetable life,
which we notice in our wanderings, but never understand,
come and go, perish and rise again—so quickly,
too, that we have no time to listen to what they say;
we only feel that the song which they sing along the
waysides of the world is ever joyous and ever sad.
In the lower part of this valley were scattered farmhouses,
which looked like small rural churches, for their
high rectangular dovecots at one end had much the
air of towers with broach spires. Throughout
Guyenne one is amazed at the apparently extravagant
scale on which accommodation has been provided for
pigeon-rearing. There are plenty of pigeons in
the country, but the size of their houses is usually
out of all proportion to the number of lodgers, and
dovecots without tenants are almost as frequently
seen as those that are tenanted. They are seldom
of modern construction; many are centuries old.
All this points to the conclusion that people of former
times laid much greater store by pigeon-flesh than
their descendants do. It may have been that other
animal food was relatively more expensive than at the
present day.