after daybreak, when I found myself sufficiently refreshed to pursue my journey.  Crossing the river, we passed through a ruinous walled town, called Arzilla, commanded by an Alcaid, under the Governor of Larache.  This, which is a maritime town, lies at the mouth of the above river, and was, according to Strabo, Pliny, and others, a Phoenician colony; it was afterwards successively in the hands of the Romans, Vandals, Arabs, and occupied by Aphonso, King of Portugal, surnamed the African.  It was abandoned by the Portuguese in 1471, when it fell under the power of the kings of Morocco.

I observed several ruins in this town and its vicinity, but could not stay to inspect them, It is inhabited by Moors and Jews, and is surrounded by gardens abounding with lemon, orange, and grape trees.  On the evening of the same day we reached this place.  I shall defer the account of my reception here, and the state in which I found the Governor, till my next.

LETTER III.

Conducted to the Governor—­Medical Hint from his Secretary—­Governor recovers—­Larache—­Its Harbour, Shipping, and Inhabitants.

Larache, February 1806.

On our arrival at this place, we were met, at the gates of the garrison, by the Governor’s public Secretary, who conducted us to a house belonging to Mr. Matra, and afterwards accompanied me to the castle to visit my patient.  On our way thither I requested the Secretary to give me his opinion concerning the present state of the Governor’s health; I also asked how he had been accustomed to live, and how long he had been confined to his bed.  “What do you mean,” said he, “by asking such foolish questions? you are not a tweeb” (the name for a physician).  I told him that I was.  He continued:  “That must be determined by your success or failure; if you succeed, you will for ever establish your fame in Barbary; you will be esteemed and respected by all the Moors; but, if you fail, and His Excellency should die under your hands, I would then advise you to make your escape as quickly and as privately as possible, and never to attempt to revisit this country.”  I confessed the weight of the encouragement and threats which he held out; and inquiring whether he meant to insinuate, that if the Governor died I should suffer death? and whether they always punished their tweebs thus when they dispatched any of their patients to the other world? he rejoined, “Not exactly; but consider, you are a Massarene, which makes a great difference.”  I then intimated that I would decline having any thing to do with his master, and would return to Gibraltar.  “You do not think of such a thing!” he exclaimed; “it would be unworthy of your character and situation.  But come; I will give you a few salutary hints, which may be of service to you; the rest you will discover at the bed-side, and on feeling the pulse of your patient, I wish you may succeed in recovering him; but I am afraid he is going, and that no tweeb on earth can save him.”