The arba started again and went off toward the square of Ribi-Khanym, where stands the mosque of that name which was that of one of Tamerlane’s wives.  If the square is not as regular as that of Righistan, it is in my opinion rather more picturesque.  There are strangely grouped ruins, the remains of arcades, half-unroofed cupolas, columns without capitals, the shafts of which have retained all the brightness of their enamelling; then a long row of elliptical porticoes closing in one side of the vast quadrilateral.  The effect is really grand, for these old monuments of the splendor of Samarkand stand out from a background of sky and verdure that you would seek in vain, even at the Grand Opera, if our actor does not object.  But I must confess we experienced a deeper impression when, toward the northeast of the town, our arba deposited us in front of the finest of the mosques of Central Asia, which dates from the year 795 of the Hegira (1392 of our era).

I cannot, writing straight away, give you an idea of this marvel.  If I were to thread the words, mosaics, pediments, spandrels, bas-reliefs, niches, enamels, corbels, all on a string in a sentence, the picture would still be incomplete.  It is strokes of the brush that are wanted, not strokes of the pen.  Imagination remains abashed at the remains of the most splendid architecture left us by Asiatic genius.

It is in the farthest depths of this mosque that the faithful go to worship at the tomb of Kassimben-Abbas, a venerated Mussulman saint, and we are told that if we open the tomb a living man will come forth from it in all his glory.  But the experiment has not been made as yet, and we prefer to believe in the legend.

We had to make an effort to throw off our contemplative mood; and fortunately the Caternas did not trouble our ecstasy by evoking any of their recollections of the theater.  Doubtless they had shared in our impressions.

We resumed our seats in the arba, and the yemtchik took us at the gallop of his doves along shady roads which the Russian administration keeps up with care.

Along these roads we met and passed many figures worthy of notice.  Their costumes were varied enough, “Khalats,” in startling colors, and their heads enturbaned most coquettishly.  In a population of forty thousand there was, of course, a great mingling of races.  Most of them seemed to be Tadjiks of Iranian origin.  They are fine strong fellows, whose white skin has disappeared beneath the tan of the open air and the unclouded sun.  Here is what Madame de Ujfalvy-Bourdon says of them in her interesting book:  “Their hair is generally black, as is also their beard, which is very abundant.  Their eyes are never turned up at the corners, and are almost always brown.  The nose is very handsome, the lips are not thick, the teeth are small.  The forehead is high, broad, and the general shape of the face is oval.”

And I cannot refrain from mentioning a note of approval from Caterna when he saw one of these Tadjiks superbly draped in his many-colored Khalat.