He disembarked at Bordeaux, in France, and joining a merry company, traveled with them in a kind of stagecoach called a diligence.

Among the company were a jolly little Pennsylvania doctor, and a French officer going home to see his mother.  In one of the little French towns where they stopped they had an amusing experience, which Irving has described in his journal.

“In one of our strolls in the town of Tonneins,” says he, “we entered a house where a number of girls were quilting.  They gave me a needle and set me to work.  My bad French seemed to give them much amusement.  They asked me several questions; as I could not understand them I made them any answer that came into my head, which caused a great deal of laughter amongst them.

“At last the little doctor told them that I was an English prisoner, whom the young French officer (who was with us) had in custody.  Their merriment immediately gave place to pity.

“‘Ah, the poor fellow!’ said one to another, ’he is merry, however, in all his trouble,’

“‘And what will they do with him?’ said a young woman to the traveler.

“‘Oh, nothing of consequence,’ replied he; ’perhaps shoot him or cut off his head.’

“The honest souls seemed quite distressed for me, and when I mentioned that I was thirsty, a bottle of wine was immediately placed before me, nor could I prevail on them to take a recompense.  In short, I departed, loaded with their good wishes and benedictions, and I suppose I furnished a theme of conversation throughout the village.”

Years afterward, when Mr. Irving was minister to Spain, he went some miles out of his way to visit this town.  Says he: 

“As my carriage rattled through the quiet streets of Tonneins, and the postilion smacked his whip with the French love of racket, I looked out for the house where, forty years before, I had seen the quilting party.  I believe I recognized the house; and I saw two or three old women, who might once have formed part of the merry group of girls; but I doubt whether they recognized in the stout, elderly gentleman, who thus rattled in his carriage through their streets, the pale young English prisoner of forty years since.”

* * * * *

In this manner he wandered about for nearly two years.  He visited Genoa, the birthplace of Columbus, and climbed Mount Vesuvius.  He dined with Madame de Stael, the famous author of “Corinne.”  At Rome he met Washington Allston, the great American painter, then a young man not much older than he.  They became good friends, and Allston afterward illustrated some of Irving’s works.  Irving was tempted to remain in Rome and become a painter like Allston.  But he finally decided that he did not have any special talent for art, and went home to finish his study of law.

CHAPTER V

“Salmagundi”

Washington Irving returned to New York, quite restored