other lands must know. Captain-Marryatt’s
allegation that the tables are good in the large towns,
has nothing to do with the merits of this question.
The larger American towns are among the best eating
and drinking portions of the world. But what
are they as compared to the whole country? What
are the public tables, or the tables of the refined,
as compared to the tables of the mass, even in these
very towns? All things are to be judged of by
the rules, and not by the exceptions. Because
a small portion of the American population understand
what good cookery is, it by no means follows that
all do. Who would think of saying that
the people of England live on white bait and venison,
because the nobility and gentry (the aldermen inclusive)
can enjoy both, in the seasons,
ad libitum?
I suspect this Mr. Cooper knows quite as well what
he is about, when writing of America, as any European.
If pork fried in grease, and grease pervading half
the other dishes, vegetables cooked without any art,
and meats done to rags, make a good table, then is
this Mr. Cooper wrong, and Captain Marryatt right,
and
vice versa. As yet, while nature has
done so much in America, art has done but little.
Much compared with numbers and time, certainly, but
little as compared with what numbers and time have
done elsewhere. Nevertheless, I would make an
exception in favour of America, as respects the table
of one country, though not so much in connection with
the coarseness of the feeding as in the poverty of
the food. I consider the higher parts of Germany
to be the portions of the Christian world where eating
and drinking are in the most primitive condition; and
that part of this great republic, which Mr. Alison
Would probably call the
State of New England,
to come next. In abundance and excellence of food
in the native form, America is particularly favoured;
Baltimore being at the very nucleus of all that is
exquisite in the great business of mastication.
Nevertheless, the substitution of cooks from the interior
of New England, for the present glistening tenants
of her kitchens, would turn even that paradise of
the epicure into a sort of oleaginous waste.
Enough of cookery.
Lucy did not appear at prayers next morning!
I felt her absence as one feels the certainty of some
dreadful evil. Breakfast was announced; still
Lucy did not appear. The table was smoking and
hissing; and Romeo Clawbonny, who acted as the everyday
house-servant, or footman, had several times intimated
that it might be well to commence operations, as a
cold breakfast was very cold comfort.
“Miles, my dear boy,” observed Mr. Hardinge,
after opening the door to look for the absentee half
a dozen times, “we will wait no longer.
My daughter, no doubt, intends to breakfast with Grace,
to keep the poor dear girl company; for it is
dull work to breakfast by oneself. You and I
miss Lucy sadly, at this very moment, though we have
each other’s company to console us.”