spirit of this prince is a school for the education of women.  It is only of recent years that the women in India were considered worth educating, and even now only about half a million in this vast country, with a female population of 150,000,000, can read and write.  But the upper classes are gradually beginning to realize the advantage of educating their girls, and the Maharaja of Jeypore was one of the first to establish a school for that purpose, which now has between 700 and 800 girls under the instruction of English and native teachers.

We had great fun at Jeypore, and saw many curious and interesting things, for it is the liveliest and most attractive place we found in India, with the greatest number of novelties and distinctive local color.  We went about day after day like a lot of lunatics, kodaks in hand, taking snap-shots at all the odd looking characters—­and their name is legion—­that we saw in the streets, and it was an unusual experience.  Everybody hasn’t an opportunity to photograph a group of elephants in full regalia carrying their owners’ wives or daughters on shopping excursions or to visit friends—­of course we didn’t know which.  And that is only one of the many unusual spectacles that visitors to Jeypore may see in every direction they choose to look.  The gay raiment worn by the women and the men, the fantastic designs painted upon the walls of the houses and the bullock carts, are a never-ending delight, for they are absolutely unique, and the latter ought to be placed on pedestals in museums instead of being driven about for ordinary transportation purposes.  The yokes of the oxen are carved with fanciful designs; everything is yellow or orange or red.  Even the camels are draped with long nettings and fringes and tassels that reach from their humps to their heels.  The decorative idea seems to prevail over everything in Jeypore.  Nothing is without an ornament, no matter how humble its purpose or how cheap its material or mechanism, its owner embellishes as much as money and imagination will allow.  Everything pays tribute to the esthetic sense of the people.

The bullocks are lean animals of cream color, with long legs, and trot over the road like horses, making four or five miles an hour.  Instead of carrying a bit in their mouths, the reins are attached to a little piece of iron that passes through a hole in the cartilage of the nose, and the traces which draw the load spring from a collar that resembles a yoke.  Most of the hauling is done by these animals.  They are used for every purpose that we use horses and mules.  Cows are never yoked.  They are sacred.  The religion of the Hindu prohibits him from subjecting them to labor.  They are used for milking and breeding, and are allowed to run at large.  Nobody dare injure a cow or even treat it unkindly.  It would be as great a sin as kicking a congressman.  A learned pundit told me the other day how it happened that cows became so highly esteemed