Another place of the greatest importance is the little bath “Parad,” hardly three hours from Budapest, situated in the heart of the mountains of the “Matra.”  It is the private property of Count Karolyi.  The place is primitive and has not even electric light.  Its waters are a wonderful combination of iron and alkaline, but this is not the most important feature.  Besides the baths there is a strong spring of arsenic water which, through a fortunate combination, is stronger and more digestible than Roncegno and all the other first-rate waters of that kind in the world.

Not only in northern Hungary does one find wondrous cures, it is the same in Transylvania.  There are healing and splendid mineral waters for common use all over the country lying idle and awaiting the days when its owners will be possest by the spirit of enterprise.  Borszek, Szovata, and many others are all wonders in their way, waters that would bring in millions to their owners if only worked properly.  Szovata, boasts of a lake containing such an enormous proportion of salt that not even the human body can sink into its depths.

In the south there is Herkulesfuerdoe, renowned as much for the beauty of its scenery as for its waters.  Besides those mentioned there are all the summer pleasure resorts; the best of these are situated along Lake Balaton.  The tepid water, long sandbanks, and splendid air from the forests make them specially healthy for delicate children.  But not only have the bathing-places beautiful scenery from north to south and from east to west, in general the country abounds in Alpine districts, waterfalls, caves, and other wonders of nature.  The most beautiful tour is along the river Vag, starting from the most northerly point in Hungary near the beautiful old stronghold of Arva in the county of Arva.

All those that care to see a country as it really is, and do not mind going out of the usual beaten track of the globe-trotter, should go down the river Vag.  It can not be done by steamer, or any other comfortable contrivance, one must do it on a raft, as the rapids of the river are not to be passed by any other means.  The wood is transported in this way from the mountain regions to the south, and for two days one passes through the most beautiful scenery.  Fantastic castles loom at the top of mountain peaks, and to each castle is attached a page of the history of the Middle Ages, when the great noblemen were also the greatest robbers of the land, and the people were miserable serfs, who did all the work and were taxed and robbed by their masters.  Castles, wild mountain districts, rugged passes, villages, and ruins are passed like a beautiful panorama.  The river rushes along, foaming and dashing over sharp rocks.  The people are reliable and very clever in handling the raft, which requires great skill, especially when conducted over the falls at low water.  Sometimes there is only one little spot where the raft can pass, and