There is thus about all natural products a certain volatile and ethereal quality which represents their highest value, and which cannot be vulgarized, or bought and sold.  No mortal has ever enjoyed the perfect flavor of any fruit, and only the god-like among men begin to taste its ambrosial qualities.  For nectar and ambrosia are only those fine flavors of every earthly fruit which our coarse palates fail to perceive,—­just as we occupy the heaven of the gods without knowing it.  When I see a particularly mean man carrying a load of fair and fragrant early apples to market, I seem to see a contest going on between him and his horse, on the one side, and the apples on the other, and, to my mind, the apples always gain it.  Pliny says that apples are the heaviest of all things, and that the oxen begin to sweat at the mere sight of a load of them.  Our driver begins to lose his load the moment he tries to transport them to where they do not belong, that is, to any but the most beautiful.  Though he gets out from time to time, and feels of them, and thinks they are all there, I see the stream of their evanescent and celestial qualities going to heaven from his cart, while the pulp and skin and core only are going to market.  They are not apples, but pomace.  Are not these still Iduna’s apples, the taste of which keeps the gods forever young? and think you that they will let Loki or Thjassi carry them off to Joetunheim, while they grow wrinkled and gray?  No, for Ragnaroek, or the destruction of the gods, is not yet.

There is another thinning of the fruit, commonly near the end of August or in September, when the ground is strewn with windfalls; and this happens especially when high winds occur after rain.  In some orchards you may see fully three-quarters of the whole crop on the ground, lying in a circular form beneath the trees, yet hard and green,—­or, if it is a hill-side, rolled far down the hill.  However, it is an ill wind that blows nobody any good.  All the country over, people are busy picking up the windfalls, and this will make them cheap for early apple-pies.

In October, the leaves falling, the apples are more distinct on the trees.  I saw one year in a neighboring town some trees fuller of fruit than I remembered to have ever seen before, small yellow apples hanging over the road.  The branches were gracefully drooping with their weight, like a barberry-bush, so that the whole tree acquired a new character.  Even the topmost branches, instead of standing erect, spread and drooped in all directions; and there were so many poles supporting the lower ones, that they looked like pictures of banian-trees.  As an old English manuscript says, “The mo appelen the tree bereth, the more sche boweth to the folk.”

Surely the apple is the noblest of fruits.  Let the most beautiful or the swiftest have it.  That should be the “going” price of apples.