by very thin ribs and cross-bars of cedar, curiously
carved and framed together. It is turned up, at
either end, like a gondola, and the sides and gunwales
fancifully painted. The whole structure is light,
and was easily carried by two men on their shoulders;
yet will bear a weight of more than a ton on the water.
It is moved with cedar paddles, and the Canadians
who managed it, kept time in their strokes, and regulated
them to the sonorous cadence of some of their simple
boat songs. Our party consisted of several ladies
and gentlemen. We carried the elements of a pic-nic.
We moved rapidly. The views on all sides were
novel and delightful. The water in which the men
struck their paddles was pure as crystal. The
air was perfectly exhilarating from its purity.
The distance about three leagues. We landed a
few moments at Point aux Pins, to range along the clean
sandy shore, and sandy plains, now abounding in fine
whortleberries. Directly on putting out from
this, the broad view of the entrance into the lake
burst upon us. It is magnificent. A line
of blue water stretched like a thread on the horizon,
between cape and cape, say five miles. Beyond
it is what the Chippewas call Bub-eesh-ko-be,
meaning the far off, indistinct prospect of a water
scene, till the reality, in the feeble power of human
vision, loses itself in the clouds and sky. The
two prominences of Point Iroquois and Gross Cape are
very different in character. The former is a
bold eminence covered with trees, and having all the
appearance of youth and verdure. The latter is
but the end, so to say, of a towering ridge of dark
primary rocks with a few stunted cedars. The
first exhibits, on inspection, a formation of sandstone
and reproduced rocks, piled stratum super stratum,
and covered with boulder drifts and alluvion.
The second is a massive mountain ridge of the northern
sienite, abounding in black crystaline hornblende,
and flanked at lower altitudes, in front, in some
places, by a sort of trachyte. We clambered up
and over the bold undulations of the latter, till we
were fatigued. We stood on the highest pinnacle,
and gazed on the “blue profound” of Superior,
the great water or Gitchegomee of the Indians.
We looked down far below at the clean ridges of pebbles,
and the transparent water. After gazing, and
looking, and reveling in the wild magnificence of
views, we picked our way, crag by crag, to the shore,
and sat down on the shining banks of black, white,
and mottled pebbles, and did ample justice to the
contents of our baskets of good things. This
always restores one’s spirits. We forget
the toil in the present enjoyment. And having
done this, and giving our last looks at what has been
poetically called the Father of Lakes, we put out,
with paddles and song, and every heart beating in
unison with the scene, for our starting-point at Ba-wa-teeg,
or Pa-wa-teeg, alias Sault Ste. Marie. But
the half of my story would not be told, if I did not
add that, as we gained the brink of the rapids, and