Another very impressive ceremony was the Midnight Mass on New Year’s Eve, when we climbed at midnight, through some close, dark passages in the vast church edifice, into a sort of concealed opera-box above the high altar, and suddenly opened windows looking down into the brilliantly lighted cathedral, crammed with kneeling people and throbbing with loud music.  It seemed centuries away from all modern life,—­a glimpse into some buried Pompeii of the Middle Ages.  More impressive still was Holy Week, when there were some rites unknown to other Roman Catholic countries.  For three days the great cathedral was closely veiled from without and darkened within,—­every door closed, every window obscured.  Before this there had been seventy candles lighting up the high altar and the eager faces; now these were all extinguished, and through the dark church came chanting a procession bearing feeble candles and making a strange clapping sound, with matracas, like watchmen’s rattles; men carried the symbolical bier of Jesus in the midst, to its symbolical rest beneath the altar, where the three candles, representing the three Marys, blazed above it.  During the time of darkness there were frequent masses and sermons, while terrible transparencies of the Crucifixion were suddenly unrolled from the lofty pulpit, and the throng below wept in sympathy, and clapped their cheeks in token of anguish, like the flutter of many doves.  Then came the Hallelujah Saturday, when at noon the mourning ended.  It was a breathless moment.  The priests kneeled in gorgeous robes, chanting monotonously, with their foreheads upon the altar-steps; and the hushed multitude hung upon their lips, in concentrated ecstasy, waiting for the coming joy.  Suddenly burst the words, Gloria in Excelsis.  In an instant every door was flung open, every curtain withdrawn, the great church was bathed in meridian sunlight, the organ crashed out triumphant, the bells pealed, flowers were thrown from the galleries in profusion, friends embraced and kissed each other, laughed, talked, and cried, and all the sea of gay head-dresses below was tremulous beneath a mist of unaccustomed splendor.  And yet (this thought smote me) all the beautiful transformation has come by simply letting in the common light of day.  Then why not keep it always?  Clear away, Humanity, these darkened windows, but clear away also these darkening walls, and show us that the simplest religion is the best!

I cannot dwell upon the narrative of our many walks:—­to the Espalamarca, with its lonely telegraph-station;—­to the Burnt Mountain, with its colored cliffs;—­to visit the few aged nuns who still linger in what was once a convent;—­to Porto Pim, with its curving Italian beach, its playing boys and picturesque fishermen beneath the arched gateway;—­to the tufa-ledges near by, where the soft rocks are honeycombed with the cells hollowed by echini below the water’s edge, a fact undescribed and almost unexampled, said