To cross the lake, it is either necessary to swim over or trust oneself to a dangerous kind of boat, which is prepared by the natives in a few minutes.  Being desirous of making the attempt, I intimated this by signs to my guide.  In an instant he tore off some plantain-branches, fastened them together with long, tough grass, laid a few leaves upon them, launched them in the water, and then told me to take possession of this apology for a boat.  I must own that I felt rather frightened, although I did not like to say so.  I stept on board, and my guide swam behind and pushed me forward.  I made the passage to the opposite side and back without any accident, but I was in truth rather alarmed the whole time.  The boat was small, and floated under rather than upon the water—­there was nothing I could support myself with, and every minute I expected to fall into the lake.  I would not advise any one who cannot swim ever to follow my example.

After I had sufficiently admired the lake and the surrounding scenery, we retraced our way for some hundred yards, until we reached a little spot roofed over with leaves.  Here my guide quickly made a good fire, after the Indian fashion.  He took a small piece of wood, which he cut to a fine point, and then selecting a second piece, he made in it a narrow furrow not very deep.  In this he rubbed the pointed stick until the little particles which were detached during the operation began to smoke.  These he threw into a quantity of dry leaves and grass which he had got together for the purpose, and swung the whole several times round in the air, until it burst out into flames.  The entire process did not take more than two minutes.

For our supper, he gathered a few plantains and laid them on the fire.  I profited by the opportunity to dry my clothes, by sitting down near the fire, and turning first one side towards it, and then the other.  Half wet through, and tolerably fatigued, I retired to my couch of dry leaves immediately after partaking of our scanty meal.

It is a fortunate circumstance that in these wild and remote districts neither men nor beasts afford the slightest grounds for apprehension; the former are very quiet and peaceably inclined, and, with the exception of a few wild boars, the latter are not dangerous.  The island is especially favoured; it contains no poisonous or hurtful insects or reptiles.  It is true there are a few scorpions, but so small and harmless, that they may be handled with impunity.  The mosquitoes alone were the source of very considerable annoyance, as they are in all southern countries.

8th May.  It began to rain very violently during the night, and in the morning I was sorry to see that there was not much hope of its clearing up; on the contrary, the clouds became blacker and blacker, and collecting from all sides, like so many evil spirits, poured down in torrents upon the innocent earth.  Nevertheless, in spite of this, there was no other course open to us but to bid defiance to the angry water deity, and proceed upon our journey.  In half an hour I was literally drenched; this being the case, I went on uncomplainingly, as it was impossible for me to become wetter than I was.