We here heard of the death of one of Tati’s sons, of which he numbered twenty-one.  He had been dead three days, and his friends were awaiting Tati to pay the last honours to the deceased.  I had intended to make an excursion to the Lake Vaihiria, but deferred doing so, in order to be present at the burial.  On the following morning, 6th May, I paid a visit to the hut of the deceased.  Monsieur —–­ gave me a new handkerchief to take with me as a present—­a relic of the old superstition which the people of this island have introduced into Christianity.  These presents are supposed to calm the soul of the deceased.  The corpse was lying in a narrow coffin, upon a low bier, both of which were covered with a white pall.  Before the bier were hung two straw mats, on which were spread the deceased’s clothes, drinking vessels, knives, and so forth, while on the other, lay the presents, making quite a heap, of shirts, pareos, pieces of cloth, etc., all so new and good that they might have served to furnish a small shop.

Old Tati soon entered the hut, but quickly returned into the open air, stopping only a few instants, as the corpse was already most offensive.  He sat down under a tree, and began talking very quietly and unconcernedly with the neighbours, as if nothing had happened.  The female relatives and neighbours remained in the hut; they, too, chatted and gossiped very contentedly, and moreover ate and smoked.  I was obliged to have the wife, children, and relations of the deceased pointed out to me, for I was unable to recognise them by their demeanour.  In a little time, the stepmother and wife rose, and throwing themselves on the coffin, howled for half an hour; but it was easy to see that their grief did not come from the heart.  Their moaning was always pitched in the same monotonous key.  Both then returned with smiling faces and dry eyes to their seats, and appeared to resume the conversation at the point at which they had broken it off.  The deceased’s canoe was burnt upon the shore.

I had seen enough, and returned to my quarters to make some preparations for my trip to the lake the next day.  The distance is reckoned to be eighteen miles, so that the journey there and back may be performed in two days with ease, and yet a guide had the conscience to ask ten dollars (2 pounds) for his services.  With the assistance of old Tati, however, I procured one for three dollars (12s.).

Pedestrian trips are very fatiguing in Tahiti, since it is so richly watered that the excursionist is constantly obliged to wade through plains of sand and rivers.  I was very suitably clothed for the purpose, having got strong men’s shoes, without any stockings, trousers, and a blouse, which I had fastened up as high as my hips.  Thus equipped I began, on the 7th of May, my short journey, in company with my guide.  In the first third of my road, which lay along the coast, I counted about thirty-two brooks which we were obliged to walk through.  We then struck off, through ravines, into the interior of the island, first calling, however, at a hut to obtain some refreshment.  The inmates were very friendly, and gave us some bread-fruit and fish, but very willingly accepted a small present in exchange.