Before reaching Paya, we passed several interesting places, among which may be mentioned Foar, a small French fort, situated upon a hill.  Near Taipari it is necessary to pass between two rows of dangerous breakers, called the “Devil’s Entrance.”  The foaming waves rose in such volume and to so great a height, that they might almost be mistaken for walls.  In the plain near Punavia is a large fort supported by several towers, built upon the neighbouring hills.  At this point the scenery is beautiful.  The mountain range breaks here, so that the eye can follow for a long distance the windings of a picturesque valley, with the black and lofty mountain Olofena in the background.

Delighted as I was, however, with the beauty of the objects around me, I was no less pleased with those beneath.  Our boat glided along over countless shallows, where the water was as clear as crystal, so that the smallest pebble at the bottom was distinctly visible.  I could observe groups and clusters of coloured coral and madrepore-stone, whose magnificence challenges all description.  It might be said that there was a quantity of fairy flower and kitchen gardens in the sea, full of gigantic flowers, blossoms, and leaves, varied by fungi and pulse of every description, like open arabesque work, the whole interspersed with pretty groups of rocks of every hue.  The most lovely shell-fish were clinging to these rocks, or lying scattered on the ground, while endless shoals of variegated fish darted in and out between them, like so many butterflies and humming-birds.  These delicate creatures were scarcely four inches long, and surpassed in richness of colour anything I had ever seen.  Many of them were of the purest sky-blue, others a light yellow, while some, again, that were almost transparent, were brown, green, etc.

On our arrival at Paya, about 6 in the evening, the young Tati had a pig, weighing eighteen or twenty pounds, killed and cooked, after the fashion of Tahiti, in honour of his father.  A large fire was kindled in a shallow pit, in which were a number of stones.  A quantity of bread-fruit (majore), that had been first peeled and split into two portions with a very sharp wooden axe, was then brought.  When the fire had gone out, and the stones heated to the requisite degree, the pig and the fruit were laid upon them, a few other heated stones placed on the top, and the whole covered up with green branches, dry leaves, and earth.

During the time that the victuals were cooking, the table was laid.  A straw mat was placed upon the ground, and covered with large leaves.  For each guest there was a cocoa-nut shell, half-filled with miti, a sourish beverage extracted from the cocoa-palm.