As I have already remarked, it is the custom here, as well as in many countries of Europe, to sentence criminals to hard labour on public works.  One of the convicts endeavoured to bribe his gaoler to let him escape, and so far succeeded that the latter promised on his paying an ounce (17 Spanish dollars—­3 pounds 8s.) to give him an opportunity for flight.  The prisoners are allowed every morning and afternoon to receive the visits of their friends and relations, and likewise to accept provisions from them.  The wife of the convict in question profited by this regulation to bring her husband the necessary money; and on receiving this, the gaoler arranged matters so that on the next morning the convict was not fastened to the same chain with a fellow-criminal, as is usually the case, but could walk alone, and thus easily get clear off, more especially as the spot in which they worked was a very lonely one.

The whole affair was very cunningly arranged, but either the gaoler changed his mind, or, perhaps, from the beginning had intended to act as he did—­he fired at the fugitive, and shot him dead.

It is very seldom that any pure descendants of the original inhabitants are to be seen; we met with only two.  They struck me as very similar to the Puris of Brazil, except that they have not such small ugly-shaped eyes.  In this country there are no slaves.

The dress of the Chilians is quite in the European taste, especially as regards the women.  The only difference with the men is that, instead of a coat, they frequently wear the Poncho, which is composed of two pieces of cloth or merino, each about one ell broad and two ells long.  The two pieces are sewn together, with the exception of an opening in the middle for the head to pass through; the whole garment reaches down to the hips, and resembles a square cape.  The Poncho is worn of all colours, green, blue, bright red, etc., and looks very handsome, especially when embroidered all round with coloured silk, which is the case when the wearer is opulent.  In the streets, the women invariably wear large scarfs, which they draw over their heads in church.

My intention, on coming to Chili, was to stop for a few weeks in order to have time for an excursion to the capital, Santiago, and after that to proceed to China, as I had been told in Rio Janeiro that there was a ship from Valparaiso to China every month.  Unfortunately this was not the case.  I found that vessels bound to that country were very seldom to be met with, but that there happened to be one at that moment, which would sail in five or six days.  I was generally advised not to lose the opportunity, but rather to abandon my design of visiting Santiago.  I reflected for a little, and agreed to do so, although with a heavy heart; and in order to avoid all disappointment, immediately went to the captain, who offered to take me for 200 Spanish dollars (40 pounds).  I agreed, and had five days left, which I determined to spend