The houses are constructed completely in the European style, with flat Italian roofs.  The more ancient buildings have only a ground floor, and are small and ugly, while most of the modern ones have a spacious and handsome first floor.  The interior, too, of the latter is generally very tasty.  Large steps conduct into a lofty well-ventilated entrance-hall on the first floor, from which the visitor passes, through large glass doors, into the drawing-room and other apartments.  The drawing-room is the pride, not only of every European who has settled in the country, but also of the Chilians, who often spend very large sums in the decorations.  Heavy carpets cover all the floor; rich tapestry hangs against the walls; furniture and mirrors of the most costly description are procured from Europe; and on the tables are strewed magnificent albums, adorned with the most artistic engravings.  The elegant fire-places, however, convinced me that the winters here are not as mild as the inhabitants would fain have had me believe.

Of all the public buildings, the Theatre and the Exchange are the finest.  The interior of the former is very neat, and contains a roomy pit and two galleries, portioned off as boxes.  The inhabitants of the town patronise the theatre a great deal, but not so much on account of the Italian operas played there, as for the sake of possessing a common place of meeting.  The ladies always come in full dress, and mutual visits are made in the boxes, all of which are very spacious, and beautifully furnished with mirrors, carpets, sofas, and chairs.

The second fine building, the Exchange, comprises a good-sized, cheerful hall, with convenient rooms adjoining.  From the hall there is a pleasant view over the town and sea.  The building belonging to the “German Club” contains some fine apartments, with reading and card rooms.

The only thing that pleased me about the churches were the towers, which consist of two or three octagons, placed one above the other, and each one supported by eight columns.  They are composed of wood, the altars and pillars of the nave being of the same material.  The nave itself presents rather a poor and naked appearance, occasioned in a great degree by the absence of sittings.  The men stand, and the women bring with them little carpets, which they spread before them, and on which they either kneel or sit.  Ladies in easy circumstances have their carpets brought by their maids.  The cathedral is called La Matriza.

The public promenades of Valparaiso are not very pleasant, as most of the side-walks and roads are covered almost a foot deep with sand and dust, which the slightest breath of wind is sufficient to raise in thick clouds.  After 10 o’clock in the morning, when the sea-breeze begins blowing, the whole town is very often enveloped by it.  A great many persons are said to die here from diseases of the chest and lungs.  The most frequented places of resort are Polanka and the lighthouse.  Near the latter, especially, the prospect is very beautiful, extending, as it does, on a clear day, as far as some of the majestic snow-covered spurs of the Andes.