The remainder of the voyage to Valparaiso was calm, but excessively disagreeable.  The captain wished to present a magnificent appearance on arriving, so that the good people might believe that wind and waves could not injure his fine vessel.  He had the whole ship painted from top to bottom with oil colours; even the little doors in the cabins were not spared this infliction.  Not content with creating a most horrible disturbance over our heads, the carpenter invaded even our cabins, filling all our things with sawdust and dirt, so that we poor passengers had not a dry or quiet place of refuge in the whole ship.  Just as much as we had been pleased with Captain Bell’s politeness during all the previous part of the voyage, were we indignant at his behaviour during the last five or six days.  But we could offer no resistance, for the captain is an autocrat on board his own ship, knowing neither a constitution nor any other limit to his despotic power.

At 6 o’clock in the morning of the 2nd of March, we ran into the port of Valparaiso.

CHAPTER VI.  ARRIVAL AND RESIDENCE IN VALPARAISO.

APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN—­PUBLIC BUILDINGS—­A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE LOWER CLASSES—­THE EATING-HOUSES OF POLANEA—­THE CHERUB (ANGELITO)—­THE RAILROAD—­GOLD AND SILVER MINES.

The appearance of Valparaiso is dull and monotonous.  The town is laid out in two long streets at the foot of dreary hills, which look like gigantic masses of sand, but which really consist of large rocks covered with thin layers of earth and sand.  On some of these hills are houses, and on one of them is the churchyard, which, combined with the wooden church towers, built in the Spanish style, relieves, in a slight degree, the wearisome uniformity of the prospect.  Not less astounding than the deserted look of the port, was the miserably wretched landing-place, which is composed of a high wooden quay, about 100 feet long, stretching out into the sea, with narrow steps, like ladders, against the side.  It was a most pitiable sight to see a lady attempting to go up or down:  all persons who were in the least weak or awkward, had to be let down with ropes.

The two principal streets are tolerably broad, and very much frequented, especially by horsemen.  Every Chilian is born a horseman; and some of their horses are such fine animals, that you involuntarily stop to admire their proud action, their noble bearing, and the nice symmetry of their limbs.

The stirrups are curiously formed, consisting of long, heavy pieces of wood, hollowed out, and into which the rider places the tips of his feet.  The spurs are remarkably large, and are often about four inches in diameter.