On arriving I found Count Berchthold, who was now quite well.  We determined, therefore, before returning to Rio Janeiro, to make a little excursion to a fine waterfall, about twelve miles from Novo Friburgo.  By mere chance we learned that the christening of the Princess Isabella would take place on the 19th, and, as we did not wish to miss this interesting ceremony, we preferred returning directly.  We followed the same road we had taken in coming, till about four miles before reaching Ponte de Pinheiro, and then struck off towards Porto de Praja.  This road was thirty-two miles longer by land, but so much shorter by sea, that the passage is made by steamer from Porto de Praja to Rio Janeiro in half an hour.  The scenery around Pinheiro was mostly dull and tedious, almost like a desert, the monotony of which was only broken here and there by a few scanty woods or low hills.  We were not lucky enough to see the mountains again until we were near the capital.

I must here mention a comical mistake of Herr Beske, of Novo Friburgo, which we at first could not understand, but which afterwards afforded a good deal of amusement.  Herr Beske had recommended us a guide, whom he described as a walking encyclopaedia of knowledge, and able to answer all our questions about trees, plants, scenery, etc., in the most complete manner.  We esteemed ourselves exceedingly fortunate to obtain such a phoenix of a guide, and immediately took advantage of every opportunity to put his powers to the test.  He could, however, tell us nothing at all; if we asked him the name of a river, he replied that it was too small, and had no name.  The trees, likewise, were too insignificant, the plants too common.  This ignorance was rather too much; we made inquiry, and found that Herr Beske had not intended to send us the guide we had, but his brother, who, however, had died six months previously—­a circumstance which Herr Beske must have forgotten.

On the evening of the 18th of October, we arrived safely in Rio Janeiro.  We immediately inquired about the christening, and heard it had been put off till the 15th of November, and that on the 19th of October only the Emperor’s anniversary would be kept.  We had thus hurried back to no purpose, without visiting the waterfall near Novo Friburgo, which we might have admired very much at our leisure.

On our return we only came eight miles out of our way.

CHAPTER V. THE VOYAGE ROUND CAPE HORN.

DEPARTURE FROM RIO JANEIRO—­SANTOS AND ST. PAULO—­CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF CAPE HORN—­THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN—­ARRIVAL IN VALPARAISO—­8TH DECEMBER, 1846, TO 2ND MARCH, 1847.