The next station, Aldea do Pedro, on the banks of the Parahyby, was situated at a distance of sixteen miles.  Our way lay through magnificent woods, and before we had traversed half of it, we arrived at the river Parahyby, one of the largest in the Brazils, and celebrated, moreover, for the peculiar character of its bed, which is strewed with innumerable cliffs and rocks; these, owing to the low state of the stream, were more than usually conspicuous.  On every side rose little islands, covered with small trees or underwood, lending a most magic appearance to the river.  During the rainy season, most of these cliffs and rocks are covered with water, and the river then appears more majestic.  On account of the rocks it can only be navigated by small boats and rafts.

As you proceed along the banks, the scenery gradually changes.  The fore-part of the mountain ranges subside into low hills, the mountains themselves retreat, and the nearer you approach Aldea do Pedro, the wider and more open becomes the valley.  In the background alone are still visible splendid mountain ranges, from which rises a mountain higher than the rest, somewhat more naked, and almost isolated.  To this my guide pointed, and gave me to understand that our way lay over it, in order to reach the Puris, who lived beyond.

About noon I arrived at Aldea do Pedro, which I found to be a small village with a stone church; the latter might, perhaps, contain 200 persons.  I had intended continuing my journey to the Puris the same day, but my guide was attacked with pains in his knee, and could not ride further.  I had, therefore, no resource but to alight at the priest’s, who gave me a hearty welcome; he had a pretty good house, immediately adjoining the church.

10th October.  As my guide was worse, the priest offered me his negro to replace him.  I thankfully accepted his offer, but could not set off before 1 o’clock, for which I was, in some respects, not sorry, as it was Sunday, and I hoped to see a great number of the country people flock to mass.  This, however, was not the case; although it was a very fine day there were hardly thirty people at church.  The men were dressed exactly in the European fashion; the women wore long cloaks with collars, and had white handkerchiefs upon their heads, partly falling over their faces as well; the latter they uncovered in church.  Both men and women were barefooted.

As chance would have it, I witnessed a burial and a christening.  Before mass commenced, a boat crossed over from the opposite bank of the Parahyby, and on reaching the side, a hammock, in which was the deceased, was lifted out.  He was then laid in a coffin which had been prepared for the purpose in a house near the churchyard.  The corpse was enveloped in a white cloth, with the feet and half the head protruding beyond it; the latter was covered with a peaked cap of shining black cloth.