On the 27th of September, at 8 in the morning, I went on board the Russian steamer Dargo, of 100 horse power.  The distance from Odessa to Constantinople amounts to 420 miles.  The vessel was handsome and very clean, and the fare very moderate.  I paid for the second cabin thirteen silver roubles, or twenty florins fifty kreutzers (2 pounds 1s. 4d.) The only thing which did not please me in the Russian steamer, was the too great attention of the steward who, as I was told, pays for his office.  All the travellers are compelled to take their meals with him, the poor deck passengers not excepted, who have often to pay him their last kopecs.

About afternoon we came to Feodosia (Caffa), which was formerly the largest and most important town in the Crimea, and was called the second Constantinople.  It was at the height of its prosperity about the end of the fifteenth century, under the dominion of Genueser.  Its population at that time is said to have been upwards of 200,000.  It has now declined to a minor town, with 5,000 inhabitants.

Half-ruined fortification walls and towers of the time of Genueser remain, as well as a fine mosque, which has been turned into a Christian church by the Russians.

The town lies upon a large bay of the Black Sea, on the declivity of barren hills.  Pretty gardens between the houses form the only vegetation to be seen.

28th September.  We stopped this morning at Jalta, a very small village, containing 500 inhabitants, and a handsome church founded by the Prince Woronzoff.  It is built in pure Gothic style, and stands upon a hill outside of the village.  The country is again delightful here, and beautiful hills and mountains, partly covered with fine woods, partly rising in steep precipices, extend close to the sea-shore.

The steamer stayed twenty-four hours at Jalta.  I took advantage of the time to make an excursion to Alupka, one of the estates of Prince Woronzoff, famous for a castle which is considered one of the curiosities of the Crimea.  The road to it passed over low ranges of hills close to the sea through a true natural park, which had here and there been embellished by the help of art.  The most elegant castles and country-houses belonging to the Russian nobles are seated between woods and groves, gardens and vineyards, in open spaces on hills and declivities.  The whole prospect is so charming, that it appears as if prosperity, happiness, and peace, only reigned here.

The first villa which attracted me was that of Count Leo Potocki.  The building is extremely tasteful.  The gardens were laid out with art and sumptuousness.  The situation is delightful, with an extensive view of the sea and neighbourhood.

A second magnificent building, which, however, is more remarkable for magnitude than beauty of construction, lies near the sea-shore.  It resembles an ordinary square house with several stories; and, as I was informed, was built as a country bathing-place of the emperor, but had not yet been made use of.  This castle is called Oriander.