18th September.  We remained the whole day in Sahun.  The coal-boats, from some inconceivable negligence, had not arrived; the coals were taken on board after we had been some time at anchor, and our supply was not completed until 6 o’clock in the evening, when we again started.

19th September.  During the night there was much storm and rain.  I begged permission to seat myself on the cabin steps, which I received; but, after a few minutes, an order came from the commandant to take me under cover.  I was much surprised and pleased at this politeness, but I was soon undeceived when I was led into the large sailors’ cabin.  The people smelt horribly of brandy, and some of them had evidently taken too much.  I hastened back on to the deck, where, in spite of the raging of the elements, I felt more comfortable than among these well-bred Christians.

In the course of the day we stopped at Bambur, Pizunta, Gagri, Adlar, and other places.  Near Bambur I observed majestic groups of rocks.

20th September.  The Caucasian mountains were now out of sight, and the thick woods were also succeeded by wide open spaces.  We were still troubled with wind, storm, and rain.

The engineer of the ship, an Englishman, Mr. Platt, had accidentally heard of my journey (perhaps from my passport, which I had to give up on entering the ship); he introduced himself to me today, and offered me the use of his cabin during the day-time; he also spoke to one of the officers for me, and succeeded in obtaining a cabin for me, which, although it joined the sailors’ cabin, was separated from it by a door.  I was very thankful to both the gentlemen for their kindness, which was the greater, as the preference was given to me, a stranger, over the Russian officers, of whom at least half a dozen were on deck.

We remained a long time at Sissasse.  This is an important station; there is a fine fortress upon a hill—­round it stand pretty wooden houses.

21st September.  This was a terrible night!  One of the sailors, who was healthy and well the day before, and had taken his supper with a good appetite, was suddenly attacked with cholera.  The cries of the poor fellow disturbed me greatly, and I went upon deck, but the heavy rain and piercing cold were not less terrible.  I had nothing but my mantle, which was soon wet through; my teeth chattered; the frost made me shake throughout; so there was nothing to be done but to go below again—­to stop my ears, and remain close to the dying man.  He was, in spite of all help, a corpse before the end of eight hours.  The dead body was landed in the morning, at Bschada; it was packed in a heap of sail-cloth, and kept secret from the travellers.  The cabin was thoroughly washed with vinegar, and scoured, and no one else was attacked.